Nono in Central America

New website!!!

2007-05-07T17:39:00.000-06:00

Hola!!!
If you want to follow my adventure, now go to my website http://www.proyectogt.org/milka/

See you there!!!

Antigua and Pacaya

2007-05-05T11:30:00.000-06:00

Here are some pictures of Pacaya

Blood at the Black Cat

2007-04-30T16:04:00.001-06:00

Working in a hostel is usually very nice but sometimes you have bad experience, like yesterday night. Let’s start by the beginning… On Saturday morning came two Guatemalan guys and they started drinking beers. After a few, one of them asked Magda if we had a bed available for him. So Magda checked him in but told me later to be careful with him because he looked a bit dodgy. I wasn’t working on Saturday because there was a music festival organized by the French Alliance (that was really nice). When I came back at night, my Co-manager told me that he was drunk in the afternoon. But then nothing happened, he came back and went straight to bed.
On Sunday, I was working alone all day. It was a crazy morning because we had 21 people staying on Saturday night and 16 checked out about at the same time. This guy came down and asked for a beer and didn’t want to eat. Then another one, another one… when he got to 6 beers (at 12pm) I told him I could not sell him another one because he was already drunk. So he left… so saw him coming in and out a few times in the afternoon looking more and more drunk. But I was so busy with work that I didn’t check on him. Around 6 pm, Chris who was sharing the room with him asked me if he could change room because there was a bad smell in the room. And it smelled alcohol and cigarette. He had 3 beers bottles in the room so I wanted to tell him that he’s not allowed to drink in the room. But he was out.

Then suddenly at 7:00 pm he arrived at the hostel pissing blood from his nose and mouth. He started walking all over the restaurant and hotel putting blood everywhere. We finally arrived to make him sit in the stairs, but he was so drunk that we had problems to understand what happened. He didn’t want to see a doctor or go to hospital. We called the police and the ambulance but nobody came. After a while, he stopped loosing blood so we went with him to his room and encouraged him to take a shower. He finally changed his clothes and just fell asleep on the bed (putting blood on the sheets and cover…). Off course, my boss was in Antigua and it took me a while to join him. We called the night guard to ask him if he could come earlier and help us with this guy. When he arrived, he went to take car of the drunken guy, helping him to wash his face and gave him some ice. Then let him sleep but told him he wasn’t allowed to get out of his room until tomorrow.
When I think happened is that we went drinking in a bar and after a while the barman asked him to leave but as he didn’t want they kicked him out by force, pushing him in the face and mouth. And I learned that on Friday he was staying in the hostel in the same street but they kicked him out because he wanted to fight with someone else. Great!!! So this morning, we went to wake him up at 6 am telling him that he needed to leave. He packed his stuff and told us he’s going to look for another place and come back to pick his bag. Off course nobody wanted him with his damaged face. So he told us he’ll go to look for a doctor and come back for his bag after. He came back this afternoon and told my co-manager to thanks me and that he will never forget me… well I hope he will! Because I don’t want to see him again but at least he was grateful for us looking after him.

The night guard was working at the other hotel before and he told me that the owner didn’t accept any Guatemalan guy alone or in group. A friend told me others bad stories about Guatemalan guys in other hostels. So I think that I’m going to be more vigilant and refuse to accommodate someone who doesn’t look right.

Ah well, bad things happen and I guess it won’t be the last time. But first time are always hard when you’re not prepared…

Apart from that story, things are getting better at the hostel. We’re having more and more people staying. Around 15 people every night this week. So slowly but surely….

After this bad experience, I really need a break having working 5 weeks non stop. So on Wednesday and Thursday I’m going to Antigua for a bit of fun!

Guatemala 10 years later

2007-04-23T17:31:00.000-06:00

10 years earlier was signer the peace accords which ended one of the armed conflict the most bloody of America Latina: the civil war of the Guatemala.

2006 marked the anniversary of the signature of 13 accords which not only ended the 36 years of war, but was looking to transform the institutions of Central America.

The conflict between the guerrilla and the army caused 200.000 dead, 50.000 people who disappeared and more than 600 communities destroyed.

But how did Guatemala started this war? Who were the actors of the conflict?

“The argumentation that had the guerrilla organizations on the beginning of the armed conflict was that there were conditions of profound inequality that had to be changed. And the reason that gave the State to get armed and receive the help of the army was that the war was begun by the guerrilla. So that shows the contradictions.”, explained a BBC the Guatemalan anthropologist Yolanda Aguilar.

The military element

The dolour of the victims and their families was the key element for this peace process.

Without doubt, there were others factors which helped the peace, like the end of the cold war and the interest of the international community to the conflict in Guatemala.

According to Rachel Sieder, of the Institute of Studies of America in the University of London, the military element was one of the key to start the process.

“The guerrilla was military defeated a lot of time before the signature of the peace”

But the other side was in the same situation as the Colonel Mario Merida, Vice minister of the interior in the 80s, confirmed to the BBC.

“The army of Guatemala didn’t have the capacity to fight. The Sate of Guatemala was in a middle of an economic crisis”.

The negotiations started in the years 80, but it took 10 years before to be signed.

And the reparations??

Through the dolour and the lost, the signature of the accords brought optimism.
“ we had big hopes, we thought that it was going to change a lot, that it was going to eliminate the racial discrimination and force to respect the rights of the indigene towns”, said the indigene leader Dominga Vasquez.
The 13 accords of 1996 covered lots of areas: the reform of the military force and the politic parties of the State, the redistribution of the lands, the material advance of the Human Rights, the installation of a committee for the truth, the demobilization of the guerrilla and its incorporation in the society, and a program of reparations.
From the point of view of some analysts and the victims, the reparations didn’t arrive at everybody.
“When the reconnaissance at the victims has been going really slowly, it has not advanced in the area of Soloa”, said Vasquez at BBC.
But for the representative of the president of Guatemala, Rosa Maria de Frades, the balance is positive:
“What provoked the slow process at the beginning was the search of the families and persons who were victims during the armed conflict. Now the process of reparation of the victims has advanced a lot: more that 10%, we’re close to the 25% and hope to finish by next year”, said the government employee.

Guatemala today
According to Frades, the process of the institutional transformation and the fight against the poverty and corruption are the priorities for the government of Oscar Berger.
“The army was against any process of investigation of the massive violations of the human rights that happened during the conflict. But it resulted by the creation of a commission very important for the country”
Guatemala still suffers of the effects of the inequality and poverty.
In conversation with the BBC, the anthropologist Yolanda Aguilar agreed that Guatemala today “is a country which needs to go out of the condition of normalization of the violence. They learnt to live in a violent society.”
But in these 10 years, Guatemala too has been a land of positive experiences.
As demonstrate the Foundation Nueva Esperanza, in Rabinal, which transformed the dolour of the conflict into programs of development and of indigene leadership.
Through the agricultural activities, they auto finance some educative projects which include, in the future, converting a dream in reality: the creation of a University.
The project was born because of the inefficiency of the application of the peace accords. What we have been doing in Rabinal is constructing and not criticizing”, said Guillermo Chen, one of the leaders of the association.

Finally some pictures of the Black Cat!!

2007-04-23T17:26:00.000-06:00

The living room

The bar and restaurant

the entrance

the corridor upstair

our lovely patio

one of the dorm

a double room

Work is slow

2007-04-21T11:35:00.000-06:00

A quick entry because I have to go back to work soon. I have found a Co-manager, a nice American girl. She's used to work in bar and restaurant and seems responsible enough. She's working 3 days in an other restaurant so is happy to work 3 days for us. With the new organisation, I'm working 4 days 12pm to 10 pm so have all my morning free and I'm enjoying it! I can sleep a lit later and do things i didn't have time to do before, like doing more publicity. And in May, I'm going to take 2 days off together every two weeks to go away of Xela and visit my friends in Lago Atitland and Antigua. I need to get out of Xela!

So now that I have more time for myself, I'm going to take a 3h course of web design to make the website of The Black Cat and my own website. I'm going to try to take Spanish Classes with Mynor. I know studying with your boyfriend is maybe not the best solution but he's a good teacher and he needs the money. And i want to take salsa classes too. I'm hoping in May to start working again on my Fair Trade project. Because I really want to do it and now that I have money coming in, I have less pression. So I have a lot of plans.... keeping me really busy! and I love it, so don't ask me when I'm coming back to Europe... not for a while that's for sure :o)
But I'm planning a trip to Mexico in June to go hiking in a park with my friends.

Work is very slow at the hostel but everywhere else in Xela. I have been talking with friends owning restaurant, hostel, school. and they all tell me the same... where are the tourists??? It is the low season now, until June. So we have to survive until then... my bosses bought a mini van and are going to organize shuttles between Antigua and Xela. So hopefully will help us...

Ok i have to run, talk to you very soon!!

looking for a new co-manager

2007-04-16T11:05:00.000-06:00

Work is keeping me very busy, it's good in a way but an other way i wish i could have more free time to take more Spanish lessons, salsa classes,... ah well hopefully in a week or two!
My co manager quit her job on Friday, not giving much notice. She hasn't been very motivated anyway, not beeing attentive to customers. So it's better but now I have to look for an other Co-manager. A girl is coming this afternoon to try and see if she likes it. So will see!! If it's working, I'll be working 4 days a week 10 hours a day, and she will be working 3 days. So i might be able to escape from time to time Xela and go travelling a bit more.
I miss travelling but it's a choice. Have a nice job and beeing able to stay here for a while or travel but then go home for the summer. So I chose the first choice and I'm happy with that :o)

As I told you, working in an hostel make you meet all types of people. Here is one I would like to mention:
- Axel: a Guatemalan guy who has been coming over for a drink a few times. He's from Huehuetenango and just moved to Xela a few months ago. The first time I met him I was impressed by his English. He was speaking a perfect English with an American accent. He just told me that he lived in the US for a while. And yesterday he told me he lived 7 years 1/2 illegally and then in November was caught by immigration and deported to Guatemala. Now he's working for a local tour company and learning to be Tour Guide. But life in Guatemala is less easy than in the US so he wants to go back there. Yes I'm always impressed by all these people ready to put their life in danger just to go to the US, the "promised" land. While they could work for their country and try to improve things... will talk in an other post about the "american dream" more in details. Because here, the money the immigrants in the US send every year is almost equal to the exportations! Just to show you how important it is for the country.

Ok i have to go back to work... see you later!!!

Hostel stories

2007-04-12T11:52:00.000-06:00

As you know, when working in an hostel you´re meeting all kind of people. Some are nice, some anoying, some weird... but you have to stay nice with everybody, and sometime it's really hard... self control... I'm learning it!!! But i can say I have been really lucky until then, meeting really nice people and everytime they leave you feel a bit sad :o(
Here are some of the people I would like to describe:
- Jette: one of my best customer. She's from Danemark and decided to come to Xela from Antigua to study Spanish for a week. She stayed for a few nights then went to a local family for 2 nights before deciding she was feeling more home at the Black Cat. Her favorite food: Sandwich of Eggs and Bacon. Her favorite drinks: Corona and Gin Tonic.
- Judith: an American woman in her 50s coming to Guatemala to study spanish and then volunteering in Antigua in an NGO. She stayed two weekend, really nice and we had some good chats.
- Karen: a girl from Israel who like every travellers from this country tried to lower the prices. But appart from this, a very nice girl who loved climbing Santa Maria by night with my friend.

and in the "annoying" section, the winner is:
- Robert: an American guy of 42 years old who came to Xela to study spanish for 2 months at Miguel de Cervantes (where I worked last year). He's no staying at the hostel but comes every two days to get drunk at the bar... He has nothing to do the afternoons, has not interest to visit anything but has very straight ideas. You can't discuss with him as he´s always right and when he got drunk he got annoying by interupting you all the time.

Today is my day off and I'm just relaxing. I have been sick for few weeks and got ameabas so I have treatment for a few days. But I'm fine, it's just part of the Guatemalan experience!!!

link pictures central America

2007-04-08T17:39:00.000-06:00

Here are some links of a friend blog who traveled across central america
http://archive.philipscalia.com/Production/PhotoGroupView.aspx?pbid=4&msa=1&pgid=8214216
http://archive.philipscalia.com/Production/PhotoGroupView.aspx?pbid=4&msa=1&pgid=8135958
http://archive.philipscalia.com/Production/PhotoGroupView.aspx?pbid=4&msa=1&pgid=8075799

http://www.philipscalia.com/GuatFotos/index.htm

Good Friday and the carpets

2007-04-08T17:02:00.000-06:00

Good Friday and the carpets

2007-04-08T17:00:00.000-06:00

Last Friday was Good Friday and here in Guatemala it’s the most important day of the Semana Santa. There were processions all day long but I was working so didn’t see much. In the afternoon, I went over to Marvin and Lety’s house with two girls from the hostel. The tradition is to make carpets in the street with sand. As last year I miss that, I decided to go and help my friends to make one. In their street they were making 4 different carpets. All the neighbors were participating; there was a spirit of fiesta. With Marvin and Lety we made a carpet with a cross on it. When you see the precision with which they made it and the time they spent, you feel sad when it is destroyed in a few second… The procession started at 6:00pm and walked down the street; destroying the hard work of the people… we walked back to the hostel passing a few processions on the way. All the processions were meeting at the parque central at 7pm.

Work is slow at the hostel. We’re having about 10 guests every night, this is not too bad but we were hoping for more people for Semana Santa. Ah well, slowly but surely… time people start hearing about us and doing publicity. The good side is that everybody who comes here loves the place.
I’m working 65 hours a week so when I have some free time I’m getting out of the hostel. Sometime I feel like I’m in prison because I can’t go out during my shift, or quickly to go to the bank or check my mail. But I like this job, you’re meeting lots of nice people (and some more difficult…). Like on Thursday night, came a Guatemalan family of 7 with grand mothers, parents, grown up kids. They stayed in a dorm all together but they were very demanding. Like they wanted water at 11:30pm… I found Guatemalan guest more difficult than foreigners. Maybe they are not used to stay in a hostel, which is different from a hotel. And most of time they don’t understand the difference. Ah well all the guests have to be treated nicely even if they are a real pain in the a***… A happy customer is someone who is going to send people! I’m learning to be patience here… even if it’s not my nature, I’m trying hard…

Santa Maria and Santiaguito

2007-04-05T17:58:00.000-06:00

view of xela under the clouds

santiaguito

roisin, arisa and justin

Climbing Santa Maria for the 3rd Time

2007-04-05T17:39:00.000-06:00

Yesterday was my first day off in the last 16 days. And as I decided I wasn't tired enough, I decided to join my friend to climb the volcano Santa Maria. It was the 3rd time for me. So we left Xela at 4:30 am and my friend Hansy brought us to the start of the walk. Us was Roisin, Arisa and Justin. Roisin was saying the night before that she will go very slowly so I decided to stay with her. We started the walk by night, admiring the sunrise while climbing. After 1h30 mn Arisa and Justin disapeared ahead and I walked with Roisin. We were talking and walking slowly, so I found the climbing less difficult than last time. But we were at the top 3h20 after starting, so we did really well! I was proud of us :o) Ok not as good as Arisa and Justin who did it in 2h50 but they are trained after walking in the mountains close to Todo Santos. My last trek was Santa Maria in December... but I really want to start walking again and my friends are really motivated too so that's cool.
At the top it was a bit cloudy but we could see clearly Santiaguito wich is an active volcano. It was the first time I saw it in 3 times so I was happy i came! We stayed at the top for a while, eating and admiring the landscape.
Then we started climbing down and it took us 3 good hours. The path is really slipery so you have to go slowly. I found it more difficult than the climb. Maybe it was because I was getting really tired.
Back to Xela, I had a shower before going to visit Mynor and drinking Rum with his friends to celebrate semana santa.

Today I feel a bit tired but really relaxed. And ready for an other 6 days of work non stop. Tomorrow afternoon I'm going to visit some friends and make sand carpets in the street with them. The processions will walk on it then. It is a tradition on Friday of semana santa. I won't see much of the processions this year but I saw them all last year.

On the road between Lago Atitlan and Xela

2007-04-05T17:30:00.000-06:00

Elina Smoking in an Arabe Cafe

Work on the road, a real mess....

the valley of Xela with Santa Maria

First week... not too bad!!

2007-03-31T18:02:00.000-06:00

Hola, Hi, Salut...
Yes I have survived my first week!!! Very tired and a bit sick but success comes only after a lot of work... I has been a good week, very slow but we have had guests everyday and for me it's the more important. Then time word spread out and people start talking about us, we will be too busy (keep dreaming girl!!).
Here I feel like people don't care about doing business. We're working with providers who come to deliver food, drinks, products to clean... and it's the most difficult task I have ever done. You call them and they always say "sure no problem, at your service". And then you have to call them at least 10 times before they show up with the products. So it brings me mad, especially when you have no more chicken which is the more important food in our Menu. And they tell you they will come in one hour... and showed up at 6pm at night! We had a few stressing moment this week but I guess it's normal because it's the begining. We have to learn...
A woman is coming in the morning to help me with the administration and is responsible for the kitchen. But it's not really working and I had to run to the market a few times this week. Which I'm not supposed to do. So I have to see with her next week to review the quantities we need everyday.

My co-manager started on tuesday and is working in the afternoon. So I'm trying to escape from the hostel for a few hours but it's hard, there are always things to do! I feel claustophobic (don't know how to write it...) sometime. But on Monday i have my first day off in the last 2 weeks. youhouu!!! Have to stay away from the hostel or I'm not going to have a break.

I find the Guatemaltec hard worker, it's the first time I have to tell people it's time to leave or they'll work 3 hours more without asking more money. I have a really good team and Rosalba, the woman who comes to clean, is the more devouted person. She just can't stop working, it's amazing! and it's good to have people you know they will do their job well without having to check after them. The night guard for the week is a really nice man and he's doing a great job. So I feel safe to go out at night and let the hostel at his guard.

Tonight is our inauguration night and I really hope many people will come. So people will know how nice is it and how delicious the food is :o) I have to take a few pic of the hostel and put it on the blog... soon I promise!!! Ok better go and not miss the good party!!

first days of the life of the hostel

2007-03-26T18:35:00.000-06:00

The opening of the hostel went well but it's really quiet! Well it's normal, time that people know us and then we'll be full all the time :o) We had 6 guests on Saturday night, 4 last night and 3 tonight. Not bad for a begining! I have a volunteer working in the morning for a week and a guy in the afternoon. The cookers are learning quickly and I think they will be ready for Semana Santa. The night guard is working well too, I was very worried because of what my boss told me but I think we'll be a good guard. He's really young (22) and maybe a bit simple but as long as I can sleep safe I don't care... Tonight is coming the other night guard who is going to work during the week. So let's see...
This Saturday is our inauguration night and I'm hoping to have people coming over from Antigua for the weekend. Next week is Semana Santa and hopefully we'll fill the hostel. We'll be open all week, retaurant and hostel.
Tonight and tomorrow morning I'm off as I have been working 12h a day for the last 10 days. And will be working non stop for the next 10 days. My co-manager is starting tomorrow afternoon and will be on training 4 days, so to be ready for Saturday.
I have a big problem, I find it hard to trust people and deleguate but I have to learn to do it or I'll not survive a month.
More news later this week... hope everybody is fine!!

Getting ready for the big day

2007-03-23T11:26:00.000-06:00

Sorry I haven't put any update for a while but I had been madly busy and today is even more crazy. I went back to Xela last Saturday and had a really quiet weekend, packing my bags and spending some time with Mynor.
On Monday, I moved to the hostel where I have been living since then. I have been runing around this week to try to get everything ready for the opening tomorrow. With the big help of Vicky, one of the cooker in Antigua who came to Xela to help to train people here. And by stuff for the kitchen, food... as I have no idea of the quantities we need, what we really need,... I focused more on the rest: the drinks, the painting, the cleaning... It's 11:30 am and we still have so much to do! I definitly find it difficult to work with providers Guatemaltec. I have been calling them since Monday and some haven't still showed up on Friday!! So we will need I think to do some last time shopping. Very stressful... but we'll get there on time!
I have a good team. I have 4 cookers (2 in the morning and 2 in the afternoon) and they are working well. Hopefully they will be fully trained by Sunday night. For cleaning, I have two cleaners and they are hard workers too. And then I found 2 volunteers who are working 5 hours a day (8am to 12pm or 5pm to 10 pm) and they are starting tomorrow. I have a co-manager too, a girl who has been living in Xela for a year and who is living in Mynor's house. She's only starting on Tuesday so will be on my own for 3 days but should be quiet (hopefully!!).
Next week is our week of test before Semana Santa when we hopefully will get a lot of people!! We're defintly counting on it!!!
Ok I really have to go, have so much to do before tonight!! Will get internet at the hostel by next week so will be able to give news more often....

work in Antigua

2007-03-14T20:33:00.000-06:00

After two really busy days, working 10 hours a day and running all over the place, today is more quiet. So tonight I'm trying to organize my ideas and see where i need more training the next two days. I'm staying in Antigua until Saturday morning, then back to Xela before starting my job there on Monday. We´re opening on Saturday 24th so less than two weeks and there is still a lot to do. So basically I'm here to get ideas and put them in place in Xela. And I'm starting to get an idea how I want to run the place. Alejandra told me I'm free to do whatever I want if the business is running... I'm getting really excited about running this hostel, think will have great fun! off course I will be very busy the first few weeks but it's a new challenge!
I need to find a Co-Manager and two volunteers next week. I think I have found already my co-manager, it's a French guy who has been working in an hostel in Chili for the last 6 months and is coming to Guatemala on the 24th. Maybe working with a French personn will make things easier, but we will see.
Tomorrow I'm going to see all the administration side. Not the more exciting but I need to know how the business works to keep control on it. I'm going to have a woman coming every morning 8 to 12 to do it. But I don't mind about administration stuff.
And then will have an other extra day to see what is missing...

Bush in Guatenala and my first day at work

2007-03-12T18:22:00.000-06:00

One of the big new in Guatemala who kept all the newspaper busy the last two weeks is the visit of Bush- He arrived last night and leaving tonight, so it has been a mess the last few days in Guatemala city and Chimaltenango. So that's why I arrived in Antigua yesterday and not today.
If you can read spanish and want to know more about Bush visit: http://www.prensalibre.com/pl/2007/marzo/12/nac.html

I stared my work here in Antigua this morning. The Black Cat is a really cool hostel, check http://www.blackcatantigua.com
I'm working 12 hours a day so really tiring but quite fun! They have 75 beds in dorms which are almost everyday all occupied, plus the bar and restaurant. So it's a really busy business, hope we'll do the same in Xela... The owners, Alejandra and Emmanuel, are brothers and sisters in the early 30s and are really dynamic. He's an architect and she's a business woman. Think will be nice to work with them because they are very open minded. The manager here was fired on Saturday, just one day before I arrived. She did lots of mistakes with numbers and apparently told bad things about the hostel and the people... Andrea is the new manager and she's from Antigua. A nice girl, very dedicated to the job. And there are two volunteers, Ryan and Jonathan. Jonathan is American but speaks really good French with a Canadian accent as he lived in Quebec for a while. Quite fun! Now he's living in Mexico city with his brothers. It's really weird to speak French again! I met an other French guy who is going back to France tomorrow and he told me I have now a weird accent in French... ahah! maybe i catched a bit of the Guatemalan accent...

Ok more stories tomorrow, need to go back to work

Call me miss the Manager!

2007-03-08T12:05:00.000-06:00

I have a great new, I got a job as Manager in a new hostel which is going to open in Xela on March 24th. To begin by the begining, 2 weeks ago I saw an add in French (oh suprising here!) about the job as manager in an hostel. They were looking for someone speaking 3 languages. So I thought, why not trying! So I went to the hiring agency, had to answer questions formulaire about marijuana, robbing in the company, beeing late for work... I guess that are the main issues with the workers in Guatemala. After i got an interview with the agent, who talked to me in French! He's Guatemalan but his dad is French so he speaks a really good French.
After the interview in Spanish (my first one!), he told me he'll get in touch.
I didn't hear from him for two weeks so didn't think of that anymore. Then on Tuesday morning, he called me and asked me to come for an interview in the afternoon with the owner of the hostel. So i went to the interview and met the two owners who are brothers and sisters. The interview went fine but I wasn't the only one so didn't give too much hope in it.
Yesterday, he called me again asking to meet the owners at a cafe but I wasn't sure if that means I had the job or just for a second round. When I arrived they told me that they decided to choose me for the job because I was the youngest, the more dynamic and the one speaking more language.

So here is the deal... I'm going to be manager of a new hostel which going to open soon in Xela. They have an hostel in Antigua and they want to do the same here. Like a chain. So am going to Antigua on Monday for 5 days training. Then on Monday 19th will move to the hostel where am going to live. I'm going to manage about 9 personns and we'll have the capacity for 46 persons.
It's a really nice place, close to the parque central. Think it's going to be a lot of work for the first few weeks and then will be time to have fun! So I'm going to have a room and food, plus 1625 Quetzales a month (about 172 euros) plus commissions. It's a really good deal for Guatemala. So will be able to make money here, who would believe it? yes am the boss...
I'm really excited about this, even if i know the first few weeks are going to be really tiring. But I'm ready for it! after 3 months of doing not much, time for real action.

So had to tell my students I won't be able to give classes for at least 3 weeks. Then will see... they were all sad, finally I'm not such a bad teacher it seems! hihihi!!!!

Ok I better go, will let you know how my training goes next week in Antigua

Roberta Menchu, candidate for the presidential election

2007-03-06T09:25:00.000-06:00

Who is Roberta Menchu?
Rigoberta Menchú was born on January 9, 1959 to a poor Indian peasant family and raised in the Quiche branch of the Mayan culture. In her early years she helped with the family farm work, either in the northern highlands where her family lived, or on the Pacific coast, where both adults and children went to pick coffee on the big plantations.

Rigoberta Menchú soon became involved in social reform activities through the Catholic Church, and became prominent in the women's rights movement when still only a teenager. Such reform work aroused considerable opposition in influential circles, especially after a guerilla organization established itself in the area. The Menchú family was accused of taking part in guerrilla activities and Rigoberta's father, Vicente, was imprisoned and tortured for allegedly having participated in the execution of a local plantation owner. After his release, he joined the recently founded Committee of the Peasant Union (CUC).

In 1979, Rigoberta, too, joined the CUC. That year her brother was arrested, tortured and killed by the army. The following year, her father was killed when security forces in the capital stormed the Spanish Embassy where he and some other peasants were staying. Shortly afterwards, her mother also died after having been arrested, tortured and raped. Rigoberta became increasingly active in the CUC, and taught herself Spanish as well as other Mayan languages than her native Quiche. In 1980, she figured prominently in a strike the CUC organized for better conditions for farm workers on the Pacific coast, and on May 1, 1981, she was active in large demonstrations in the capital. She joined the radical 31st of January Popular Front, in which her contribution chiefly consisted of educating the Indian peasant population in resistance to massive military oppression.

In 1981, Rigoberta Menchú had to go into hiding in Guatemala, and then flee to Mexico. That marked the beginning of a new phase in her life: as the organizer abroad of resistance to oppression in Guatemala and the struggle for Indian peasant peoples' rights. In 1982, she took part in the founding of the joint opposition body, The United Representation of the Guatemalan Opposition (RUOG). In 1983, she told her life story to Elisabeth Burgos Debray. The resulting book, called in English, I, Rigoberta Menchú, is a gripping human document which attracted considerable international attention. In 1986, Rigoberta Menchú became a member of the National Coordinating Committee of the CUC, and the following year she performed as the narrator in a powerful film called When the Mountains Tremble, about the struggles and sufferings of the Maya people. On at least three occasions, Rigoberta Menchú has returned to Guatemala to plead the cause of the Indian peasants, but death threats have forced her to return into exile.

Over the years, Rigoberta Menchú has become widely known as a leading advocate of Indian rights and ethno-cultural reconciliation, not only in Guatemala but in the Western Hemisphere generally, and her work has earned her several international awards. She received the Nobel Peace Prize in 1992.

Roberta Menchu, the Nobel Price is looking for equality.

In an interview with the Prensa Libre (newspaper national), Roberta Menchu explained she’s looking to promote a space of equality and values, to change the country.

How are you feeling a few days alter the declaration official of your candidature?
It’s weird. I’m feeling relieved, in peace internally and physically, even if I have received calls from 5 am.
It’s a sensation I have never felt before. I had a meeting with the president Oscar Berger and the vice-president Eduardo Stein, where we talked about my future in politics.
Some friends who had received the 1st Nobel Price contacted me. I think they will come to Guatemala when I’ll win the presidency.

What will mean this new turn in your life?
It’s something extraordinary, because that will be a new direction for the country to take, and many people are waiting for it with hope. The Guatemalan people believe in ghost and terror. We have to say that the women and Indigenes don’t believe in it.

Do you believe that being a woman or indigene will have an incident in your politic future?
I believe in equality, because it’s a mission of the public service, and we’re all human. For a year they have been asking me if I was interested to be candidate and I always replied no. Considering that in that elections the conditions are not equals, but I’m not going to wait to be President behind a glass door.

When did you decide to participate in the presidential course?
The element that made me decide was the invitation of various parties; especially the Unidad Revolucionaria Nacional Guatemalteca and the Encuentro por Guatemala (EG), which was looking for a complete and integral person.

Some people have been criticizing you…
They said I was crazy and the rich people qualified me of traitor… in this moment I felt a bit lonely. The brothers told me “yes let’s go for the Presidency”. So I told them “why not?”

Have you suffered discrimination?
Sometime people get offended without reason. I’m practising the mayan spirituality, which helps me to keep my balance, and I don’t want that they put on my back invoices that are not mine.

Many people affirm that your participation changed completely the electoral panorama.
It’s early to make a valorisation. It’s like motocross, because the parties will never be able to do the same again; they have to readapt their institution, and the ideal will be that they all open their door to indigene candidates. So we’ll all win, not only EG or Winaq.

Sure to win
We have to eliminate the “phantasms” that have the Guatemalan people on the politic participation of the women and indigenes.

Human Right report on Guatemala, year 2006

2007-03-06T09:19:00.000-06:00

Twenty years after the return of civilian rule, Guatemala has made little progress toward securing the protection of human rights and the rule of law, essential features of a functioning democracy. Impunity remains the rule when it comes to human rights abuses. Ongoing acts of political violence and intimidation threaten to reverse the little progress that has been made toward promoting accountability in recent years.

Impunity
Guatemala continues to suffer the effects of an internal armed conflict that ended in 1996. A truth commission sponsored by the United Nations estimated that as many as 200,000 people were killed during the 36-year war and attributed the vast majority of the killings to government forces.

As Human Rights Watch has noted in the past, Guatemalans seeking accountability for these abuses face daunting obstacles. The prosecutors and investigators who handle these cases receive grossly inadequate training and resources. The courts routinely fail to resolve judicial appeals and motions in an expeditious manner, allowing defense attorneys to engage in dilatory legal maneuvering. The army and other state institutions fail to cooperate fully with investigations into abuses committed by current or former members. The police do not provide adequate protection to judges, prosecutors, and witnesses involved in politically sensitive cases.

Of the 626 massacres documented by the truth commission, only two cases have been successfully prosecuted in the Guatemalan courts. In 1999, a Guatemalan court sentenced three former civil defense patrol members to prison for the murders of two of the 177 civilians massacred in Rio Negro in 1982. In addition, in October 2005, the Supreme Court of Justice upheld the 2004 sentencing of a lieutenant and 13 soldiers to 40 years in prison for the 1995 Xaman massacre in which 11 civilians were killed.

By contrast, the prosecution of former military officers allegedly responsible for the 1982 Dos Erres massacre, in which at least 162 people died, has been held up for years by dilatory defence motions. Furthermore, the trial of six other civil defence patrol members, alleged to be complicit in the Rio Negro massacres, has been delayed since October 2004 because of defendants’ appeals.

The few other convictions obtained in human rights cases have come at considerable cost. In the case of Myrna Mack, an anthropologist who was assassinated in 1990, it took more than a decade to obtain the conviction of an army colonel, Valencia Osorio, for his role in orchestrating the killing. During that time, a police investigator who gathered incriminating evidence was murdered, and two other investigators—as well as three witnesses—received threats and fled the country. Osorio, meanwhile, escaped police custody and has not served his sentence.

The July 2005 discovery of approximately 70 to 80 million documents of the disbanded National Police, including files on Guatemalans who were murdered and “disappeared” during the armed conflict, could play a key role in the prosecution of those who committed human rights violations during the conflict. Unfortunately, there is no legal framework in place to ensure adequate long-term management of the archive, nor to regulate public access to its files.
Impunity remains a chronic problem with common crimes as well. The Guatemalan Human Rights Ombudsman’s Office estimates, for example, that arrests are only made in 3 percent of the cases involving murders of women and girls. The prosecution of those who commit violence against women is impeded by discriminatory legislation that prevents punishment for some violent crimes against women, and impunity is further fuelled by deeply ingrained gender discrimination within the government agencies responsible for the investigation and prosecution of these crimes.

Frustration with the lack of justice in Guatemala has undoubtedly contributed to acts of vigilantism in the last several years. Public lynching is a common problem, with 25 lynching cases reported in 2004 and 32 in 2005. The majority of lynching victims were suspected of having committed a crime, but there has also been lynching in the past few years which was motivated by other factors, such as disputes over land or water.

Several steps have been taken by the Guatemalan government in 2006 to combat impunity, improve the justice system, and guarantee the rights of prisoners. In October 2006, Guatemalan President Oscar Berger approved a prison reform law (Ley del Regimen del Sistema Penitenciario), passed by Congress the previous month, which includes provisions setting up rehabilitation programs and schools within prisons.

Attacks and Threats by “Clandestine Groups”
Over the past five years, there has been an alarming number of attacks and threats against Guatemalans seeking justice for past abuses. The targets have included human rights advocates, justice officials, forensic experts, and plaintiffs and witnesses involved in human rights cases. They have also included journalists, labour activists, and others who have denounced abuses by the authorities. Guatemalan human rights organizations state that 161 such acts of violence or intimidation were reported between January and August 2006.

On April 2, 2006, Meregilda Súchite was murdered, apparently in connection with her work as a community leader and member of a women’s human rights group, which is supported by the Centre for Legal Action in Human Rights (Centro para la Accion Legal en Derechos Humanos, CALDH). Members of the Guatemalan Foundation for Forensic Anthropology (Fundacion de Antropologia Forense de Guatemala, FAFG) continued to receive death threats in 2006, in connection with their work exhuming bodies buried in clandestine cemeteries throughout the country.

There is widespread consensus among local and international observers that the people responsible for these acts of violence and intimidation are affiliated with private, secretive, and illegally armed networks or organizations, commonly referred to in Guatemala as “clandestine groups.” These groups appear to have links to both government officials and organized crime—which give them access to considerable political and economic resources. The Guatemalan justice system, which has little ability even to contain common crime, has so far proven no match for this powerful and dangerous threat to the rule of law.

Excessive Use of Force
While political violence is no longer carried out as a matter of official state policy, members of the national police still sometimes employ excessive force against suspected criminals and others. The perpetrators are often poorly trained police officers. Between January and June 2005, there were 257 complaints made to the Guatemalan Human Rights Ombudsman’s Office for abuse of authority by police or prison guards and 18 complaints filed for extrajudicial killings by police or prison guards. For example, a transgender woman was murdered and another was critically wounded on December 17, 2005, when they were gunned down on a street in Guatemala City. Eyewitnesses reported that the gunmen were uniformed police officers.

Key International Actors
The UN High Commissioner for Human Rights opened an office in Guatemala in 2005 to provide observation and technical assistance on human rights practices. In February 2006, the office issued a report on human rights in Guatemala, expressing its concern over the current situation and urging the government to take a number of steps in order to combat violence and impunity, such as ratifying the Optional Protocol to the Convention against Torture and Other Cruel, Inhuman or Degrading Treatment or Punishment.

Efforts continue to secure the implementation of the 2004 agreement between Guatemala and the UN to establish a special commission to investigate and promote the prosecution of “clandestine groups.” The Commission for the Investigation of Illegal Groups and Clandestine Security Organizations (Comision de Investigacion de Cuerpos Ilegales y Aparatos Clandestinos y de Seguridad, CICIACS) grew out of a proposal developed by the Guatemalan government and local human rights groups, in consultation with members of the international community. In 2004, Guatemala’s Constitutional Court held that several of the agreement’s provisions were unconstitutional. In May 2006, the Guatemalan government presented to the UN a revised version of the agreement. At this writing, the Guatemalan government and the UN are still negotiating the contents of the CICIACS agreement.

In a landmark ruling, Spain’s Constitutional Court held on September 26, 2005 that, in accordance with the principal of “universal jurisdiction,” cases of alleged genocide committed during Guatemala’s internal armed conflict could be prosecuted in the Spanish courts, even if no Spanish citizens were involved. On June 24, 2006, Spanish Judge Santiago Pedraz, a Spanish prosecutor, and two private prosecutors went to Guatemala to take testimony from the defendants. However, no testimony was given because the defendants filed numerous appeals, and the Guatemalan Constitutional Court suspended the proceedings indefinitely. On July 7, 2006, Judge Pedraz issued international arrest warrants for eight Guatemalan defendants and issued an order to freeze the defendants’ assets, both in Spain and internationally. In November, a Guatemalan court authorized the arrest of four of the defendants. At this writing, Spain had not yet sought extradition of the suspects from Guatemala.

The Inter–American human rights system continues to provide an important venue for human rights advocates seeking to press Guatemala to accept responsibility for past abuses.

Genocide and impunity in Guatemala

2007-03-05T09:26:00.000-06:00

One of the genocide forgotten by the history of the humanity is the one in Guatemala. Except for the international and regional Human Rights instances and some ONG which know about it in details; but it was forgotten by the majority of the world public opinion. In Central America wasn’t possible the elaboration of an historic memory of this awful fact to serve as an instrument to say no more to this type of crime. The genocide against the population indigene Maya was committed by the army of Guatemala (probably the crueler army of Latin America) between 1978 and 1986, together with other crimes of violation of the human rights, in the context of the civil war between the army and the guerrilla.

A recent international event was used to call for the attention of the population on such a crime. We’re referring to a resolution in October 2005 of the Tribunal Constitutional of Spain which establishes that the Spanish justice is competent to judge genocide outside its frontiers even if there weren’t any Spanish victims. This resolution is based on a principle of universal justice.
The case of Guatemala shows a clear situation where the Human Rights: truth, justice and reparation weren’t respected by the Guatemalan State. These three rights contribute to be sure that the crimes against the humanity are not left without being judged. The rights for the truth and the one of the reparation are new reconnaissance and are in the process to be consolidated by the international jurisprudence. Each one of these rights is applicable separately. From these rights, we can analyse the case of the genocide and the impunity in Guatemala.

The right for the truth: the victims (direct or indirect) have the right to know the truth about the crimes committed against them. This right gives a reconnaissance to the victims, which involves sometime that this truth can’t stay with the victim but has to be known by other people, so goes public. In consequence, the truth has to be recognized officially and publicly. Without its official reconnaissance, there won’t be any justice process and reparation. In another hand, the right for the truth involves the reconnaissance of the right for the elaboration of the historical memory of such crimes. The process of the elaboration of this memory is individual and collective and involve the victims, others social actors and the public power. This right for the memory is recognized by the Inter-American court of the Human Rights in its sentence against the State of Guatemala in the case of the extradition of Myrna Mack.

In Guatemala, the elaboration of the historic memory counts on two important points of information: the office of the Bishop of Guatemala with the project of the Recuperation of the Historic Memory (RMIH), from which was written the book “Guatemala nunca mas”. The Bishop Juan Gerardi was killed two days after presenting the book, case that was presented as a commune crime. The other point of information is the Commission for the Historic Establishment (CEH), of the ONU, instance which wrote a big report. Both documents tell about the grave events of the genocide in this country. Without doubt, one indispensable condition for the respect of the right for the memory to be effective, reside en that the State recognizes and participates at its elaboration. But the Guatemalan State persists in a position of negation. This negation is reflected in expression of soldiers: “what happened happened, and there is no question of looking into it”. That reflects the lack of politic decision from the State to defend the Human Rights and the democratic values.

reports of the Bishop of Guatemala and the ONU, like the reports of Amnesty International and CODEHUCA, and the book of Prudencio Gracia: The genocide of Guatemala at the light of the military sociology (2005), show that in Guatemala there was a genocide, which was designed by high Guatemalan soldiers, with the accord of the authorities in the government; some examples are the manuals of torture and the school of formation of the Kaibiles, with which the army was trained to execute the genocide.

The other reason why we can talk about genocide is that all the actions were directed against a specific population: the indigenes Mayas in zones rural, a civil population disarmed who didn’t resist. The massive massacres against the population didn’t result of the confrontation between the army and the guerrilla. A report from the CEH on the genocide reports 626 massacres committed between 1962 and 1996. These massacres are attributed mostly at the army of Guatemala. Besides were executed tortures and executions extrajudicial, and others crimes against the humanity. All these actions resulted to 200 000 dead and disappeared people. 93% of these acts are the responsibility of the State.

Right for the justice: this right involves the duty of the State to create the judicial organization necessary for the denunciation, the investigation and the judgement of the authors of violation of HR. Beside, it involves that the State takes measures to avoid the impunity of grave and systematic violations of the HR. If this process is not followed, it limits the action of reparation for the victims, which creates frustration and disillusion of the victims. In Guatemala, the State didn’t adopt the measures necessary to fight for the democratic rights; which ended up in series of disastrous tries to restructure the justice system independently and efficacy to resolve the cases of violation of the HR. One example is the project of the University of Harvard (1986-89), directed by Philip Heymann Ames, who at the end of the process denounced the complete lack of politic willing to fulfil this right.

The decision of the Spanish justice put in evidence that the judicial system and in general the government in Guatemala, are not able to warranty the judicial processes and the investigation on the genocide. The action of the Spanish justice is an important example, which opens a possibility for the global justice which was limited by the powers of the organisms of the international justice. For example, the International Penal Court can’t resolve the case of Guatemala because it can’t deal with cases of crimes committed between 2002. The Inter American Court of Human Rights, don’t have the necessary power either because it can’t condemn the individuals outside the United States.

The decision of the Spanish Justice to investigate the genocide in Guatemala, is based in a principle of justice universal which shows that certain violation of the HR are so serious that they disgust the moral conscience of the humanity; in consequence they can pursue these crimes outside the frontiers where occurred the right. This idea of justice universal is written in a document elaborated and approved by the Commission of the Human Rights of the ONU. In the reality the process of investigation started by the judge of the General Audience, Santiago Pedraz, has been limited. In July 2006, Pedraz ordered the capture of the ex president, General Efrain Rios Montt and 7 generals for the crime of the genocide. The Judge Pedraz tried to make a visit of investigation in Guatemala to realize audiences to interrogate the accused persons. This action was forbidden by the Tribunal Constitutional of Guatemala; instance which decided that Pedraz couldn’t interrogate Rios Montt; a resolution approved by 4 votes in favor and one against. Before, in July 2006, Amnesty International reported threatening acts against the witnesses of the court; many of these witnesses are members of ONG. In the edition of the journal El Pais of Tuesday November 7th, 2006, was the information that the Tribunal Penal of Guatemala authorized the capture for extradition of 4 military Generals and two civil reclaimed by the Spanish justice for the case of the genocide. Off course the resolution didn’t include the General José Efraín Ríos Montt. This news represents a step forward for the principle of the justice global in the case of Guatemala.

It seems that this incapacity of the justice instance to defend the HR goes father than the violations of these rights. In August 2006 by Philip Alston, reporter of the ONU for Guatemala, who after a visit of 4 days in this country, denounced the impunity to the murderers in Guatemala and the incapacity of the State to resolve these cases.

Right for the reparation: in many cases, the harm caused to the victims of violation of the HR are irreparable, the injuries are so serious that all they can do is learn to live with the dolour. The right for the reparation doesn’t appear in the international instruments of the HR, but appear in the jurisprudence international which create this right.

The reparation goes farther than the economic side. The reparation is a process, the victims have series of demands which can’t be expressed in the moment or immediately after the event, because the victims have a slow process to assume and get over the hurt and dolour. The victims need time to be able to speak. In this feeling, the reparation goes through the reconnaissance of the victims, which necessarily implicate the reconnaissance official of the truth and the justice (ex reparation extern). In the other hand, the reparation implicates series of measures to repair the harm done to the victims like: retribution, indenisation, rehabilitation, satisfaction and the warranty of no repetition. In the case of Guatemala, they are far from realizing this right.

That’s why, the Guatemalan State, if he wants to consolidate its democratic institutions, its justice system and achieve a social reconciliation, has to start a process to recognize the genocide.

Laguna de Chicabal

2007-03-05T09:14:00.000-06:00

going down the 615 steps

the mysterious lake

with Elina (up) and Alicia (down)

this is what we were supposed to see...

cemetery of Xela

2007-03-05T08:54:00.000-06:00

No we're not in Egypt... only in Xela

I can guess what was his job

Market San Francisco Del Alto

2007-03-05T08:38:00.000-06:00

view on the market

market of animals

view from the village

market of huipiles

visit of Elina

2007-03-05T08:34:00.000-06:00

On Thursday, Elina, my Finish friend, arrived in Xela after travelling for two weeks. That was great to see her again, always a good laugh :o). After diner, we were on our way to go out when I got a call from Mynor. He had borrowed a DVD from a friend so we went over to his place to see “the last King of Scotland”.

On Friday morning, we went to the market in San Francisco Del Alto, a small town 1h from Xela. It’s a big market where you can find anything, from animals to teeth brush.
In the afternoon, we went for a walk around town, drank a beer, got my money from the school,… very layback! At night, I brought Elina to my favourite bar in town. We were the first customer of the night. There was a big manifestation of the students at the park and a feria as every Friday before Semana Santa. So bars were empty until 10- 10:30pm. Then we went to a bar disco where Mynor joined us (“just for a beer!” but stayed until it closed as I knew he will). It was a mix of Salsa, Merengue et Regueton. We had a good time. I’m improving slowly my Salsa, on Wednesday Mynor gave me a class and that was cool. I hope we can find more time for practising.

On Saturday, we left Xela at 10am with Elina and Alicia to go to la Laguna de Chicabal. It’s a lake in a crater of a volcano, about 1h from Xela. We stopped at a village then walked 1h to get to the National Park. The road was very steep and dusty; I felt the non exercise paying… have to move my ass and do more treks before the raining season!
Chicabal is the “centre of Maya-Mam Cosmo vision”. It’s a sacred place and hotbed by Mayan ceremonies. While walking up, the weather was beautiful and hot. But the more we climbed, the cloudiest it was. When we arrived at the mirador, we couldn’t see a thing. It was all misty! I had already come here last year so I described to my friends what they should see… we went down the 615 steps which brought us to the lake. With the mist it was very mysterious. After a quick lunch, the cold started to get us so we decided to walk back. 615 steps up… more difficult than going down (how weird is it ;o)). And we got the 2:00pm bus back to Xela.
After a nap, we went for diner at an Indian Restaurant where Roisin is living now. So delicious! We met with some friends at the park and listened to some marimba. Then we decided to keep our night really Indian and went to an Indian bar where we smoke some chicha while drinking green tea. And to finish the night we went dancing. But I got really tired and by midnight we were back home.

Elina left yesterday morning, sniff!! She went to Antigua for a few days before heading to Honduras to go diving on the Caribbean coast. She has a flight from Costa Rica at the end of March to South America. Lucky girl!!!

This week I’m teaching more classes, about 15 hours or maybe more. So that’s good for my bank account! Hopefully by next month I will be able to live with the money I’m earning here… I migh have to go to the Mexican border one day this week because my visa is expiring on the 8th. I’m hoping that a friend of mine is coming back from Holidays so will take care of it without having to lose a day.

interesting links on Guatemala

2007-03-04T14:49:00.000-06:00

Here is an interesting blog about Guatemala, the Guatemalan Solidarity network:
http://gsn.civiblog.org/blog

An other blog about what is happening in Guatemala (in spanish)
http://www.soloenguatemala.blogspot.com/

News in English of Guatemala:
http://www.prensalibre.com/

News in Spanish and more about Guatemala:
http://www.i-dem.org/

Shocking pictures of Guatemala from an American reporter:
http://victorjblue.com/thestories/guatemala.html
http://victorjblue.com/thestories/maras.html

Violence in Guatemala

2007-03-01T09:56:00.000-06:00

As everybody knows, Guatemala is a violent country and things have been really messy the last few days with the death of 3 politicians of Salvador in Guatemala.

Last week Monday, they found 3 Salvador politicians dead in Guatemala city. The three men were members of the governing Arena party of El Salvador, and were deputies to the Central American Parliament. One of them was the son of the party's late founder, Roberto D'Aubuisson. D'Aubuisson was accused of being behind the assassination of Archbishop Oscar Arnulfo Romero in 1980. The four killings followed a controversial request by the Salvadorean Congress to honour Roberto D'Aubuisson, who died of cancer in 1990. On Wednesday, they arrested 4 policemen and they put them in the highest security prison in Guatemala.
But on Monday, the policemen were shot dead inside the maximum security Boqueron prison.
An investigation into the murder of the three Central American Parliament politicians is still under way. Several hostages taken during the riot have been released and the authorities have recovered the officers' bodies.
The circumstances of the killings are still unclear. Most of the jail's inmates are members of the Mara Salvatrucha gang and the shootings are reported to have taken place during a riot over conditions. But it is unclear if the riot started before or after the killings.
Some of the relatives of inmates said that guards had let in the attackers at visiting time.
Prison sources told Spanish news agency Efe that armed gunmen had threatened guards and then hunted for the policemen.
Guatemalan police said they suspected drug gangs were behind the killing of the policemen. One of the dead men was the head of an anti-organised crime squad.
The Mara Salvatrucha is heavily involved in drug trafficking.
The Guatemalan ambassador to Britain, Edmundo Urrutia, told the BBC that state institutions in his country were still very weak after decades of civil war.

Theories
Luis Herrera and his fellow officers were arrested on 22 February for the abduction and murder of Salvadorean of the politicians William Pichinte, Eduardo D'Aubuisson and Jose Ramon Gonzalez - all members of El Salvador's ruling Arena party - and their driver.
Early reports said the killing of the Salvadoreans was politicalTheir charred bodies had been found three days earlier on the outskirts of Guatemala City, where they had been due to arrive on a visit from El Salvador. As the days have gone by there have been a wide variety of versions circulating about why they were targeted.
Early reports suggested that it was a political killing, since Eduardo D'Aubuisson was the son of Roberto D'Aubuisson, the man widely believed to have run El Salvador's right-wing death squads in the 1980s.
Other sources quoted by the Guatemalan press said the victims had been carrying drug money in a hidden compartment in one of their vehicles and were killed as part of a vendetta between rival gangs.
The head of the presidential human rights office in Guatemala, Frank LaRue, told the BBC he could not confirm or deny that version, but said that he was convinced "organised crime" was behind the killings.
He also confirmed that his government had requested help in the investigations from the FBI.

'Weakness'
For his part, El Salvador's chief of police, Rodrigo Avila, has said he believes the three politicians and their driver were killed "by mistake", and that the assassins were "tricked" into believing they were targeting drug traffickers by those who had hired them.
Mr Avila also said that on their arrest, the four police officers had confessed to their interrogators, a version that was later denied by the Guatemalan authorities.
However, GPS tracking devices in the police officers' car appeared to link them directly to scene of the crime.
With the suspected gunmen now dead, investigations will now centre on the larger question of who was behind the killings.
The ability to assassinate high-profile politicians in broad daylight and then order the death in custody of the principal suspects, suggests a powerful and well-organised criminal syndicate is involved.
Mr LaRue said that infiltration of the Guatemalan police by organised crime was nothing new and reflected the continuing weakness of the security apparatus in the country.
Neither was it the first time, he said, that politicians from Central America had become caught up in criminal activities - if that were indeed the case.

Traditional indigene party

2007-02-27T10:01:00.000-06:00

Alisha, Lety and me in traje traditional (right to left)

with Alisha and Roisin

Lety and Marvin

Before dancing, they served a glass of wisky

Marvin and Lety's daughters

Dance traditional

Concert and traditional Indigene party

2007-02-27T09:43:00.000-06:00

On Friday night, there was a big free concert in the stadium of Malacates, a group from Guatemala. It was to celebrate the 65 birthday of Xelaju, the local football team. So here we went with Roisin, Curt and Eli. It was absolutely packed but the atmosphere was brilliant. We were lucky to get in because I heard they closed the doors a bit later. It was only the second time I went to a concert in Guatemala and the only thing you have to avoid is being in front of the stage in the middle of the crowd. Because everybody jumps, well the cold motivated you to do it! We were out at midnight, when is the next one?

On Saturday, Marvin and Lety invited Alisha, Roisin and me to a traditional indigene party for the 50s birthday of one of our friend. With Alisha we decided to play the game and dressed up with the traje typical. That is composed of a huipil or large shirt decorated, and a long skirt. Very heavy to wear but quite warm. And you should have seen the look of the people when they saw foreigners wearing traditional clothes! That was funny :o)
When we arrived at the party, we went to salute all the members of the family and gave the present we bought. After a toast, the woman danced with her husband around the room and when she passed in front of you, you have to clap. Then she danced with a few members of her family, while everybody was seated and watched them.
Finally the dance was opened. One of the particularities was that women danced with women and men with men. And before starting dancing, they drunk a glass of whisky (normally it is rum). But soon they stopped giving alcohol to women but not to men… is it another form of machismo? Any way, there were two lines of women face to face and same for men. One line was moving front and back, then the other one. Very slowly. But one thing very weird was that they didn’t look at each others but kept the look down. Lety told us it’s a form of shyness.
There was a band playing with marimba, guitars and saxophone.
We left after the food was served because the kids were tired. But it was a good experience!

Tonight, I’m going to the public university at night to listen to a friend playing with his band. Then we might go to a bar with live music. Yes lot of music!
On Wednesday night, we might go to a Salsa class with Alisha and Roisin. I want to improve my Salsa as I haven’t been able to learn more since last year. My private teacher (Mynor) is too busy now, so have to find another guy ;o) But actually my friend Curt is willing to learn to dance. Might be funnn!!!

This week, I’m going to visit a few schools for my project of tourism alternative. I’m hoping to organize a first trip to the community of Saq’Jal on the 17th and 18th March.
My Finish friend Elina is coming to Xela on Thursday for a week after travelling around Guatemala. So more parties! Would be great to spend some time with her before she’s leaving Guatemala for more adventure.

a new baby is born, welcome Judith!

2007-02-22T11:35:00.000-06:00

Welcome Judith to our family! My niece was born last Saturday. Here are some pictures.

Hola me llamo Judith! Hi, my name is Judith.

Oh my sister! she's so small!

the family

the sisters

the aids in Guatemala and more news

2007-02-17T11:38:00.000-06:00

Last Tuesday night, I went to a conference from a guy working in a clinic where they receive persons having the VHI/ Aids.
The aid is a big problem in Guatemala; it’s the country having the more cases in Central America. There are 52,000 cases reported but in the reality it’s close to 88,000 cases. Because the access to the test is very difficult and only given to the persons having all the symptoms, many people are VHI without knowing it. So most of the people who are coming to the clinic are really sick. On the last 3 months, on 172 new cases only 16 were at the beginning of the disease. The rest were grave cases.
77% of the cases are concentrated on the road of the immigrants, from others Central American countries (Honduras, El Salavador, Nicaragua), who are crossing the country to go to Mexico and the USA. It is concerning six departments, of which 38.18% correspond to the Department of Guatemala. It is noteworthy that these departments are characterised by their high levels of production and trade.
The government doesn’t want to be involved to fight against the aids; they say it’s not the problem of the country but the people themselves. So many organisms fighting are ONG.

83.2% of all cases occurred in the 15-49 age group. The 20-34 age groups represented 52.11% of all cases. The most frequent transmission route is sexual (94.43%). There are no cases reported with transmission by injecting drug use (IDU).The persons the most touched are not the one we would think. For the women, it’s the housewives. While they stay home, the husbands go out and have extra conjugal relationships. And they bring the disease back home. While the man goes easily to the doctor when he’s sick, the woman and especially the indigene woman hardly go. So it’s more difficult to detect how many women have HIV.
The statistics say that 70% of the patients are indigenes it is believed to be more.

There are very few campaigns of prevention and education because of the taboo problem. Talking openly about sex and protection is not well seen in most communities. And the machismo is not helping either. The man is supposed to control de sex life of the couple so. There is the problem too of the very strong religion in the culture. And there is very little access or no access to the condoms. Current coverage is below 50 %. In every little village, you’ll find a beer but not a condom.

The main problem the clinics and hospital is meeting is the access to the medicine. Only 2000 people have access to antiretroviral drugs, but they need some for 10,000 people. And in the 2000 people, only 360 people have the medicine paid by the government. The rest is thanks to ONG and the Mundial Fund.

The clinic the guy is working in is treating cases of tuberculosis and aids, because they realized the two diseases are very similar. And often the patients having aids have too tuberculosis. 50% of people with tuberculosis are infected with HIV and 21% of those with HIV develop tuberculosis.
They are situated in a national hospital which before didn’t want to hear about aids. 12% of the cases were aids. Now, 5 months after the clinic started, 43% of the cases are aids. And it’s increasing.
The clinic is working for 98% of the cases with Indigenes coming from the communities around Xela but too from Huehuetenango and Quiche. They are working with the patient but with the family too because their support is very important especially in the Mayan communities.
In a community, when a person is sick the entire village help him or her until the person can go back to work. If one of the parents or both die, the children are taking care by family or community members. But with the aids, this attitude changed because people didn’t know much about the disease and so they rejected the persons. With the clinic, they are going into the communities to explain them more about the aids and now people are changing their attitude with the people being HIV.
------------------------------------
This week has been busy in parties :o) On Wednesday, it's salsa night in town and with Roisin, my new friend of Ireland, we went to a bar. We had fun and met some local guys to dance with.
On thursday,we went to an Indian restaurant then out for a drink with the girls.
Yesterday night, I met Phil for a drink, an american photographer who is travelling around central america for 4 weeks. Then I went to the wedding shower of Rebecca, a friend who is studying Spanish in Xela for 3 weeks. She's going to get married on April so we decided to do a little party. We had great fun, organizing games and dancing Salsa. But I had too much drink, mixing beer, a very strong fruit alcool and champagne. I was supposed to go travelling today but couldn't... ah well need so relax a bit... to be ready for the next party tonight!
A friend of mine who has a Spanish school is lending me his office. So I'm working there every morning and it gives me a motivation to wake up early every day. It's good for me to have a bit more structure in my days.

Crazy party in Lago Atitlan

2007-02-17T11:24:00.000-06:00

Here are some pictures of last saturday party. Some pictures might shock ;o)

the girls working at the hotel

Elina in her new dress

Very popular among the "girls"

the cousin

Hot hot hot!!!

biiippppp!!!!

there is no age to have fun!

the hondurian cowboy attitude

a bit of music to rest after dancing too much

my new "boyfriend"

striptease on the bar

my guatematec family. Gladys (right) and her daughter.

Teaching English in a village

2007-02-12T15:44:00.000-06:00

Last wednesday I spent a morning with kids of a local school.

Playing with the kids

Roisin from Ireland

My friend's baby. He's tall for 7 months!

the classroom

view of the school

My friend Lety, attacked by confeti...

Teaching the kids

Visiting the groups of TediMaya

2007-02-12T15:36:00.000-06:00

Wall of the cementary of Comalapa (Chimaltenango)

Shop of huipils (traditional shirt that the women wear)

Cantel, close to Xela. The women sew the designs on the products

One of the symbol maya

Sugar cane close to Huehuetenango

Group of Huehuetenango

Saq'Jal and the alternative tourism

2007-02-12T15:30:00.000-06:00

These are the pictures of the community I'm going to do some alternative tourism with.

coffee plantation

the association house

Maria the vice president

pictures of the women of the association

Nebaj

2007-02-12T15:24:00.000-06:00

These are my pictures of my trip to Nebaj a few weeks ago to visit a community

demonstration of weaving

preparation before to weave

Conference and party

2007-02-12T15:23:00.000-06:00

I wrote a long entry last week and the computer shut down, off course I didn’t save it… so to make long stories short, last week was busy.
Last Monday I went to visit a community close to Huehuetenango (north), about 2h30 from Xela. This community suffered a lot during the civil war and really starts working by 2001. They are doing nice products, colours and design. They just have to put less design on the same piece of textile. I’m going to try to help them improve their products to be more appealing for exportation.

On Tuesday night, I went to a conference on the discrimination against the indigene women in Guatemala. I’m very interested by this subject because I’m working with Indigene communities. I have already read a few texts on this subject.
A girl came to testify about her experience. She’s from a small community close to Xela and when she was young she suffered from discrimination. Because she has Indian’s hairs, have a dark skin and she didn’t speak a good Spanish. In her community they speak Mam. Her teachers asked her to forget her language, her traditions, because it was bad. So she was forced to deny her origins if she wanted to get into the Ladino society. And at a point she hated herself for being Indigene. But latter she went to Cuba and she discovered what mean being an Indigene. And she rediscovered her origins and her language. She did a thesis on this subject and today many indigene women suffered still from discrimination. They suffered two discriminations: one for being an Indigene and the other for being a woman. In the country, 95% of the indigene women can’t read and write. The solution come with education and many organizations are trying to help them to get a minimum of education and get out of their poverty. But there is still a long way to go…

On Wednesday, I went teaching English in a very poor rural school with friends. They have only two teachers, one for 1st and 2nd grade and the other one for 3rd to 6th grade. And me, who was complaining in Honduras… we played with them for a while, got attacked by eggs full of confetti. Then we taught them English for 2 hours. Yes kids are great but only for a short period…

On Saturday, I decided I need a bit of fun. So I went to Lago Atitlan to join my friend Elina for a BBQ party in the hotel where she was working. I say was because she finished working on Sunday. I had to finish a work in the morning so I left Xela quite late and arrived at the hotel at 8pm. The party had already started but it was very quiet for a while. Then things got a bit crazier. Oh I forgot to explain one thing; it was a dress-up party and guys dressed up in women and women in guys. So you have a better picture! :o) We started drinking, dancing while. That was a long time I didn’t have so much fun. And then I decided it was a bit too warm and offered Elina to go for a midnight swim in the lake. That means off course being naked, it was really dark so the probably for someone to see us was very thin. So off we went for our swim, very quick because glaglagla!!! And just when we finished dressing up, a guy from the hotel walked in front of us… oufff!!! We almost got caught!
Back to the hotel, we spent time between inside dancing and outside to chill out and listen a concert of guitars and tam tam. A young local boy decided to talk to us. And he went straight to the point asking me if I want a boyfriend… ah ah! Well come back in a few years and I’ll reconsider the offer ;o) he was 19 years old, a bit young… but he offered me a nice bracelet as a souvenir. How cute!
At 3 am we decided to go to bed, Elina having to work at 7:30 am on Sunday. Well we learnt on Sunday morning that we left at the right time. Because there was blood on the door! Apparently it was my “boyfriend” blood… I don’t know the details but I don’t really want to…

This week is going to be busy. I’m going to teach every night in a school. Only 1 hour but that already a start. Then on Tuesday or Wednesday, a friend from the US is coming over to Xela for a week. I want to go to a conference, go Salsa dancing with friends, and the more important finish my website for my project!! And do some publicity for my project of alternative tourism. So keeping busy!

Alternative tourism

2007-02-06T12:07:00.000-06:00

My weeks in Xela are very busy, so I don’t see the time passing (who would complain?). Between the travels, I’m trying to organize my project and do my website.

Now I’m working on the second part of my project which is to develop the alternative and eco-tourism in Guatemala by working with local communities. For the moment, I’m in contact with the association Saq’Jal (http://www.casainteram.org/saqjal.html) I went to visit 10 days ago. I’m going to organize weekend there for Spanish students so this week I’m going to visit the Spanish schools and do some publicity.
The program is:
Saturday- Arrive at 10 am; tour community and Saq´Jal´s development projects; lunch followed by a talk and workshop led by the women of Saq´Jal on their experience as victims of the War, refugees, and retornados as well as the Peace Process and organization building; meet your homestay family; afternoon snack & games; traditional Mam dinner and Noche Intercultural including traditional music, dance and ceremony.
Sunday- Backstrap weaving demonstration and instruction with a chance to make your own tzute; lunch; goodbye ceremony; leave by 4pm.

On Monday, I’m going to go back to Chimaltenango to visit two communities of the association Samajel B’atz’. One of them is welcoming groups from Canada twice or three times a year for a period of 10 days. They live with families of Samajel B´atz´ organizations´ members. By sharing the daily lives of Mayan people, they have the opportunity to discover the cultural richness and experience some of the economic poverty faced by these families
A variety of workshops give participants the opportunity to learn Mayan history, weave on back strap looms, and use plant remedies, among other things. Other activities depend on the group’s initiative. To date, visitors have participated in scholastic and organizational activities, as well as built and painted buildings belonging to the weaving groups.
So I’m going to see with them if they are interested to welcome more people and organize trips from Quetzaltenango for the tourists.

Between my projects, I’m teaching French to 3 students. Not a lot of hours by week but it help me a bit. I’m looking to teach more, until my two projects are running fine and I won’t need the extra money… But I’m enjoying it, me who hate the grammar!!!

Normally I should have a new cordon for my digital camera next week so will be able to put a few pictures on line! Youhouuu!!!

Samajel B'atz'

2007-02-02T10:36:00.000-06:00

On Monday, I went to Guatemala city to meet the association Samajel B’atz’. The two groups in Nebaj and Cotzal that I visited are from this association. But let’s read the interview of the director.

Name of the association: Samajel B'atz'

Date of creation: 1988

Name of the president: Ernesta

How many groups in the association? 5 groups in the departments of Quiche and Chimaltenango

Fare trade association: yes

Products: textile

Interview of the president:

- Name: Ernesta

- Where are you from? From Guatemala city

- How was the association created? In 1991, Concern America arrived in Guatemala and decided to help the communities of women to organize themselves. Between 1991 and 1998, the ONG helped us to be formed legally. Then when they left in 1998, we were able to be independent.

- How is the association working? We are working with 5 groups. Before we were working with more groups but the market being really slow, they left the group.
Each group is very independent. We’re meeting every 3 months to share experience and decide of action.
In Guatemala City, we have a little shop and the communities bring their products regularly. We are the link between the customers and the groups.

- What is the main project the association is working on? We are pushing the communities to diversify their activities and not depend only on the textile.

o Production of products: for the last 2 years, the women are trained to product soap and shampoo from natural herbs. These products can be sold easily on the local market.

o Alternative tourism: for the last 3 years, the community of Flor Del Campo is housing groups of Canadian twice or three times a year. They are sharing the life of the locals and go to different activities.

- What are your projects for the future? The group of Nebaj would like to develop some eco tourism in the area and we are going to help them.

- Since when the association is recognized as Fair Trade Association? Since 2005, we are accredited by the Fair Trade Association in the US.

- What are the benefices for the association? To be sure that we’re paying a fair price to the women and it’s a chart of quality for our customer.

- Are you exporting your products and where? We’re exporting twice to the USA and too to Canada with the young who are coming to visit us. But we’re looking for more markets.

Travel stories

2007-01-31T10:28:00.000-06:00

On Monday, I travelled to Guatemala city to meet the association Samajel B'atz' (will write more about them later) and yesterday I was in Chimaltenango to meet a community.

But on the way back to Xela, things got crazy. Well I have already written about the experience of travelling by chicken bus. I think yesterday was the most crazy trip I have ever had...
The road between Xela and Guatemala city is very bad because they're repairing and adding a third line at some part of it. So the traffic is bad.
Anyway I got into a bus to Xela and the driver was as usually driving really fast and crazy. But suddenly... boummm!!! One of the wheel explosed! so off the bus, to repair it. It was quite fast, i can see that they are used to... back to the road the driver didn't slow down and it's the first time I saw passengers asking the driver to reduce his speed! At one stage we were overtaking an other bus in a courb and suddenly a big truck arrived the other way... well i thought it was the end, we almost finished smacked between the other bus and the truck.
And then 2 hours later.... pchiiitttt!!! the same wheel! as they didn't have an other one to change, he kept driving. then we met an other bus of the same company and they gave us their wheel, so an other stop to change again. The driver took some shortcuts, crossing small village at full speed. Just to gain a few minutes... mamamiaaaa!!!
The rest of the trip went ok, and I arrived at Xela 5 hours later happy to be alive!!!

I'm in Xela this week, resting a bit after all the travelling. Until next week... but after will be more quiet.

Saq'Jal and the community of San Alfonso

2007-01-31T10:23:00.000-06:00

On Saturday I went to visit a small community at one hour from Xela, close to the coast.
Let’s meet Maria, the vice president of the association Saq’ Jal. It’s a small association of 11 women.

- What is your name? Maria

- Where are you from? Huehuetenango, in the north of Guatemala

- When and how the association was created? The families of the community are from Huehuetenango. During the civil war, in the 80s, they went to Mexico to live in the Chapias. In the early 90s, they came back to Huehuetenango but they houses had been occupied by others families. As they didn’t have any papers they couldn’t prove that they owned the land. So they came to Reu to buy a land and settled down. In 1991, the association Saq’Jal was created to help the community to survive. Now there are 20 families Mam from Huehuetenango living in the community.

- How is the association working? We are 11 women weaving and we’re selling our products in the local market and to students who come to visit us.

- What are your projects? An American association is helping us a lot. We built our own house for the association with its help one year ago.
o This year we have opened a formation of mecanographia and we have 12 students.
o The community is improving slowly and now we have running water and electricity, a primary school. But there are still a lot to do, like we want to do a sceptic fosse because the hygienic conditions are not good and kids get sick.
o We are receiving students from Xela who are studying Spanish at Celas Maya. They are coming for a weekend, to live in a local family and we are organizing activities for them like a demonstration of weaving, traditional dances,…

- What means for the association to be fair traded? That means paying a price to the women depending of their work.

- Are you exporting and where? No we’re not exporting yet but we’re very interested to do so.

I stayed a day with the community, meeting the women and their families. I wasn’t impressed by the products; they are nice but not really up to what I have seen since then. But I want to help them by another way. For the moment, they are working with one of the big school in Xela. And every 2 or 3 months, a group of students come to spend a weekend with them. I would like to offer the opportunity to others schools to come. So I’m planning to organize weekend there once or twice a month. Will be a good help for the community and a great experience for the students.
An other project to work on…

Guatemala and the indigene population

2007-01-28T14:45:00.000-06:00

I found this interesting text... for whom are interested to learn more about Guatemala.

Guatemala

and the indigenous people

Country Overview

In 1996, Guatemalans witnessed the signing of peace accords that officially marked an end to the country's 36-year civil war, the longest and bloodiest of this century's Latin American conflicts. Behind the smokescreen of "fighting communism," military groups trained and funded by the US killed 200,000 mostly Indigenous people and destroyed 440 Mayan villages. More than a million people were uprooted from their homes and over a quarter million became refugees in surrounding countries.

The peace accords aimed to reduce the power of the military in civilian life improve the living conditions of rural Guatemalans and protect the rights of Indigenous Peoples. Yet the accords failed to resolve many of the root causes of conflict in Guatemala. The country's most fundamental crisis, the unequal distribution of land, remains a major problem, with 2 percent of Guatemalans controlling 72 percent of the country's arable land. This inequality was at the core of the civil war, which was fuelled by US-backed efforts to monopolize land for the benefit of agribusiness.

Although the conflict has officially ended, Indigenous Peoples in Guatemala face ongoing human rights violations. Racism, neo-liberal policies that prioritize corporate interests, lagging land reform, and a persistent culture of impunity that favours former military officials and the landholding elite continue to generate high levels of poverty, malnutrition, and unemployment in Indigenous communities. Poverty is significantly higher in Indigenous communities than in non-Indigenous communities; Indigenous Peoples comprise 58 percent of the poor and 72 percent of the extreme poor. The average wage gap between Indigenous and non-Indigenous workers is approximately 50 percent in all industries. 67 percent of Indigenous children suffer from chronic malnutrition.

Remilitarization

Although the peace accords require the withdrawal of the military from civilian life, the militarization of Guatemalan society has steadily increased in recent years. The armed forces have retained an influential presence in government and the role of the army in public security has expanded. Clandestine security structures, made up of former military, paramilitaries and drug traffickers, have resurfaced. Former members of the Civilian Action Patrols (PACs), paramilitaries that were made up of young, Indigenous men, which never completely disbanded after the civil war, have consolidated power through leadership positions in local government and are demanding compensation for their unpaid service during the conflict. The Estado Mayor Presidential (EMP), the state military unit responsible for gross human rights violations during the civil war, was finally abolished in October 2003, as called for in the peace accords. A new civilian intelligence unit is slated to take its place, yet faulty legislation may allow for its future militarization, and former EMP members, in strict violation of the peace accords, have already joined the new unit's ranks.

The United States has encouraged the remilitarization of Guatemala as part of the implementation of proposed free-trade agreements such as the Central American Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA), the Free Trade Area of the Americas (FTAA), which would turn all of Latin America (except Cuba) into one big free-trade zone, and Plan Puebla-Panama, which seeks to build a giant network of highways and railroads and develop the oil and electric industries from Mexico's Puebla state all the way to Panama. The US government is using these trade agreements and resulting investments of US corporations as a pretext to increase military assistance throughout Central America. Already, a more visible US military presence in Guatemala has coincided with increased oil exploration by US companies. The US also uses the drug war to justify ongoing US military operations in rural areas of Guatemala. For Guatemalans, armed troops in their communities means more human rights abuses, intimidation, land confiscation, and the denial of labour rights.

Increases in Violence and Human Rights Violations

Remilitarization has led to renewed human rights violations reminiscent of Guatemala's civil war. Since 2000, Guatemala has witnessed a sharp rise in violence and intimidation directed at union leaders, human rights activists, and journalists. Indigenous communities in rural areas have been particularly affected by the escalating crisis as landowners increase their violent harassment of campesinos organizing for land rights. The violence has been attributed to illegal groups and clandestine security structures that have, until this point, received impunity from the Guatemalan government.

Guatemala has also experienced an alarming increase in violence against women, including rape, torture, and extra-judicial killings. The government has tried to dismiss the violence as a product of gang activity and drug trafficking, but human rights organizations claim that the precipitous rise in attacks against young, mostly poor and Indigenous women in Guatemala may be related to a larger pattern of abuse directed at Indigenous communities and social justice activists. In total, more than 2,200 women have been murdered since 2001, and the rate of murders continues to rise each year.Most are young women who migrated from rural areas to shantytowns of Guatemala City, in search of better wages.

At the end of 2004, the United Nations Verification Mission in Guatemala (MINUGUA) withdrew from the country. MINUGUA was established towards the end of Guatemala's civil war to monitor the human rights situation and the implementation of the 1996 peace accords. It was hoped that by the end of MINUGUA's ten-year mandate, the Guatemalan government would have enacted the majority of its obligations under the accords. It didn't. While it was in Guatemala, MINUGUA documented a gradual but definite upswing in extra-judicial killings and lynching. Now that MINUGUA has left Guatemala and there is no joint commitment to ensure the implementation of the accords - which include provisions for land reform, Indigenous rights and demilitarization - it will be much more difficult to achieve a resolution to the current human rights crisis.

Structural Adjustment and Free Trade Policies

In Guatemala, where poverty and inequality rates are among the highest in Latin America, policies like structural adjustment have caused unemployment to soar, while the minimum wage hovers at less than a third of what it costs to meet a family's basic needs. 75 percent of the population lives in abject poverty and nearly 60 percent of households lack access to a health facility.In city, women displaced by the war compete for poorly paid work under abusive conditions in the maquila (sweatshop) factories that have become emblematic of Guatemala's role in the global economy. Meanwhile, in the Guatemalan highlands, Indigenous communities are contending with worsening poverty and outright hunger after one of the worst droughts in recent memory and the collapse of world coffee prices (Guatemala's biggest export) in 2001. The ongoing coffee crisis—the worst of the past 100 years and a result of destructive World Bank policies that flooded the international market — have left over 40 percent of Guatemalans without work. Almost 60% live below the poverty line and nearly 40% live on less than $2 per day.Small farmers continue to lose their homes and land as the push for open markets bankrupts those who cannot compete with the low price of US imports.

Structural adjustment policies, which encourage foreign investment and the privatization of critical services and utilities, are slated to work hand in hand with neo-liberal free trade agreements such as CAFTA, the FTAA and Plan Puebla-Panama. Almost all of these agreements include a one-sided protectionism in favour of the US, making it nearly impossible for local businesses and small farmers to compete with US corporations. By allowing US corporations increased, unregulated participation in the Guatemalan economy, such agreements promise to further exacerbate poverty and unemployment, displace more poor farmers and Indigenous Peoples, destroy natural resources and biodiversity, create many more maquilas and lead to further militarization of the region.

Furthermore, as a condition of these US-driven trade pacts, critical services such as health care and education would be privatized, placing access to medical care even further out of reach for poor women and families. In Guatemala, women's and children's health is already jeopardized by inadequate medical services: maternal mortality among Indigenous women is 83 percent higher than among non-Indigenous women and, with only one doctor for every 10,000 rural Guatemalans, most women and girls lack even an annual medical check-up. Guatemala has the highest infant mortality rate in Central America and malnutrition among Guatemalan children is one of the worst in the world.

Maquilas

Unable to feed their families, many rural Guatemalans have flocked to the city to work in the country's maquila sector, producing name-brand clothing for export to the US. Without the protection of unions, Guatemala's 80,000 maquila workers suffer deplorable conditions. Most earn subsistence wages and spend more than a quarter of their pay on water in the under serviced shantytowns where they live.

Like their counterparts in Taiwan, the Philippines, Haiti and elsewhere, over 80 percent of Guatemala's maquila workers are young women who work longer hours than men and are paid half of men's wages. And many maquila workers are the sole providers for their families. Without adequate labour laws and enforcement of those laws, workers suffer human rights violations, including physical assaults, humiliating treatment and the forced consumption of amphetamines to increase output. Garment workers often sustain permanent lung damage from textile dust. Other workers live with chronic injury from the strain of repetitive manual work. Poised to create more maquilas in Guatemala, US-backed free trade agreements offer no increased protection for maquila workers. Privileging profit over workers' safety, health and other human rights, these agreements give US corporations the right to sue governments for enforcing labour laws that could improve conditions in maquilas and protect women's human rights

TediMaya

2007-01-28T14:40:00.000-06:00

On Thursday I met an association named Tedimaya who is located in Xela. But first let’s read the interview of the director. I'm going to visit one of the community in Chimaltenango on Tuesday, on thursday will go to visit an other community next Xela and on Monday 5th February I'm going to Huehuetenango.

Name of the association: TEDIMAYA for Association Tejedora de Desarrollo Integral Maya

Date of creation1988

Name of the president: René Godinez Gracia

How many groups are working for the association? 8 groups around Guatemala

Fair trade Association: no

Type of product: textile

Interview of the director:

- Name: René

- Where do you come from? From Quetzaltenango

- How the association was created? It was created in 1989 following the civil war to help the communities to get out of the poverty. Its first objective is to promote the respect of Human Rights, especially of the girls and women in indigenes communities. We are fighting against the racial discrimination and the exclusion. We have an education program on the economy, politic and culture. It’s only in 1995 that we start the textile.

- How is the association working? We are working with 8 groups and each of one are weaving different products. One group is sewing the designs on the products and another one is doing the confection. A part of the price of the products goes to a social fund for our products.

- What is the main project the association is working on? We have 8 social programs:

Institutional program: we’re encouraging the members of the communities to participate and elaborate local projects. They got a formation in administration, finance and human resources.
Girls and teenagers: we’re offering a formation in organization and participation at the local level. But we have formations too in computer, girl and woman human rights, formation for politic leaders to encourage their active participation at different levels.
Women: We have formation on the themes of the discrimination, racism, violence interfamilial, participation at the local level, and participation politic, economic and cultural. We’re encouraging the participation of women at the local politic decisions.
Ceprodimaya (Centro de Capacitacion y Desarrollo en Production Integral Maya): Promote and encourage the development of the women and teenagers, and of the community in general, by selling their weaving products on the local and international market.
Technical training: formation on weaving, design, administration of companies, administration of productive projects, quality, confection of the products, etc… but too on the commercialization and competitively.
Youth: encourage the participation of the young people, to improve the politic and development activities in their communities.
Culture and rights of the indigene villages: promote the respect of the rights of the indigene villages, in all the aspect like the culture, the laws, the politic constitution, the act on the identity and rights of the indigenes villages.
Alternative education: Promote the Maya education, by the reading and writing in indigenes languages, and by the translation of local languages.

- Are you exporting your products and where? For the moment no, but we’re looking to export because the local market is very slow.

travelling to meet the Mayan Women

2007-01-24T10:55:00.000-06:00

I haven’t updated my blog for a while… how surprising! I have been busy with my project.
Last week I met an association in Xela named Trama. It was created in 1988 and now is a collective of 400 weavers in 15 communities around Guatemala. They have a little shop in Xela where they sell their textile products: scarves, make up bags, coin purses, table runners, pillow cases,… and they have a weaving school where people can come and learn how to weave. They started exporting to Sweden last summer and it is working quite well. So they hope to extend to others countries.

On Saturday, I went to visit a community in a village 1 hour from Xela. It’s the community of the president of the association. There are 23 women working and they speak the language Mam. They are doing pillow cases.

On Sunday, I went to Nebaj, a village in the north of Guatemala. 7h by bus from Xela, very tiring but worth it.
Nebaj is in the Ixil Triangle. This area, in the department of Quiche, is wild in more than landscape. The northwest of Guatemala was the main battlefield for guerrilla and state forces from 1970s to early 1990s. Some of the most horrific massacres the country has seen took place in this triangle, defined by the area between the Indian villages of Nebaj, Chajul and San Juan Cotzal. Many villages were razed to the ground, only to be rebuilt as “model villages” by the government.

I visited two communities who are working for an association named Samajel B’atz’. I haven’t met yet the responsible of the association. But they arranged for me to go and visit two of their communities.
The first is named Tejidos Ixiles and is located in Nebaj. I was welcomed by Pedro, the president of the community. The local is situated a bit outside Nebaj, in a field given by the diocese of Quiche.
History: In 1988, many refugees from villages around came to Nebaj to escape the violence. Most of them were women with kids; most men were killed by the army. So the diocese of Quiche decided to buy a large field and offered it to the families for them to construct houses. Catholic sisters living in the area decided to help them to organise themselves and find a solution to survive. So they created the association Tejidos Ixiles. The diocese of Quiche offered them a field for 30 years. In 1995, they started working with Samajel B’atz’ who helped them to be legally constituted.
Now 55 women are working in this association and they are weaving textiles with the symbols of Nebaj.
But as the market has been very slow for the last two years, they are working on two project:

- they lend small amounts of money to the women for a small interest

- Eco tourism hotel: they have the project to open an eco tourism hotel in their local to welcome groups of tourists. They will offer them to visit the villages around and stayed with families.

Then I went to visit the community in San Juan Cotzal named Maria de Nazareth. It’s a village 30 minutes from Nebaj who suffered a lot too during the war. In 1990, 40 widows decided to create an association to fight against poverty. And they have been working with Samajel B’atz’ since 1995. They are doing textile like Tejidos Ixiles but the models are very different.
With the help of Catholic Sisters, they are exporting little quantity to Germany and Italy. But it helps to maintain the association.

Back to Xela, I’m going to meet an other local association tomorrow. And on Saturday, I’m going to Solola next Lago Atitlan to meet an other community working with Trama. On Monday I'm going to Guatemala city to visit the association Samajel B'atz' and on Tuesday I'll be in Chimaltenango to visit the two others groups who are working with them.

What I enjoy the most in this project is having the opportunity to visit local communities and speak with the women. Most of them don’t speak Spanish but one of the 24 languages Guatemala has. But there are always at least one or two persons who understand Spanish. That helps for the communication ;o)

I can’t put any pictures online because I lost my USB cable for my camera and I’m waiting for a new one from Europe. So a bit of patience…

Pictures AUDA

2007-01-12T10:34:00.000-06:00

Community El Tablon
House AUDA built for a widow

Community of Wajakile Kan, Solola
Community of Zaput

weaving machine given by an other ONG

women of the cooperative
Pana Joyeria

preparing for the weaving
shop in San Antonio Palopo

and her owner, working for the association

ceramique
back strap weaving
ceramic factory
the oven
view from the village

all the ceramics are painted by hands

traditional dress

Presentation of the communities working for AUDA

2007-01-12T10:26:00.000-06:00

So during two days, I worked with the association AUDA and I went to visit the groups they are working with. I was impressed by the quality of their products. Now the next step is waiting for them to finish the new catalogue to present my project first in France and then if it's working to others countries. I'm going to meet others associations next week, to see if I can work with them.

Here are the different groups:

Community d’El Tablon- Mujeres Analizadoras Cooperative
The community is represented by 16 women. 25 kids were beneficing from the school scholarship program last year.

History: El Tablon's close proximity to military barracks resulted in a high number of disappearances during Guatemala's civil war. Women from the community formed the Mujeres Analizadoras artisan cooperative to provide income and support to those recovering from the resulting financial and emotional strain. Cooperative members are known for the quality and range of their jewelry designs, including the community's distinctive woven beaded necklaces and bracelets.
The group hopes to build a community center and invite and train additional cooperative members as their sales through the international market increase.

Products: Jewellery like braces, necklaces, … and bags.

Interview of the artist:
- Quel est tu nombre? Maria Elena Par, I'm the president of the cooperative.

- Cuanto tiempo estas trabajando por la association? 2 years

- Cual son los beneficios de trabajar por ellos? The benefices are that now we’re working united and with the money from the sales they are helping us to send our kids to school and develop our community.

- Que significa para ti el commercio equitable ? That means that we decide the price we want to sell the product and we receive a fair wage for our work.

Community of Wajakile Kan, Solola
The community is represented by 30 women and 23 kids were beneficing from the scholarship program last year.

Products: Textile like scarves, table clothes, …

Interview of the artist:
- Quel est tu nombre? Dona Antonia. Presidente.

- Cuanto tiempo estas trabajando por la association? 3 anos

- Cual son los beneficios de trabajar por ellos? They are helping us to sell better and helping our community to develop.

- Que significa para ti el commercio equitable ? To receive a fair price for our products and not being exploited.

Community of Zaput- Ajquema K'aslemal Cooperative
This community is represented by 25 women and 21 kids were beneficing from the scholarship program last year.

History: Most women in the community of Zaput are widows from the violence of Guatemala's civil war. Economic hardship forced many mothers to leave their farming community and seek temporary work on coastal coffee and cotton plantations.
During the early 1990s, these women formed the Ajquema K'aslemal cooperative to create a support network of women artisans. Their artisan cooperative also allows mothers to provide for their children while still living in their native highlands community and maintaining Mayan weaving traditions. The Ajquema cooperative has initiated various local development programs in their community including building a community center and running a basic medicinal plants health project.
Due to the economic and psychological stress this community has exprienced, most women in the Ajquema cooperative never attended school. Without the benefit of bilingual public school education, women in Zaput exclusively speak Cakchiquel, one of Guatemala's 24 indigenous languages.

Products: textile

Interview of the artist:
- Quel est tu nombre? Dona Vicente. Presidente.

- Cuanto tiempo estas trabajando por la association? 6 meses

- Cual son los beneficios de trabajar por ellos? We received weaving machines from an ONG. AUDA teach us how to weave with the machines and now is helping us to develop our products. They are helping us too to send our kids to school.

Community of Panajachel- Pana Joyeria
The community is represented by 10 women and 4 kids were beneficing from the scholarship program last year.

History: Started by AUDA founder Freida Cox, and based in Panajachel, the necklaces and bracelets made by the jewelry cooperative is one of our top-selling items

Products: Jewellery

Interview of the artist:
- Quel est tu nombre? Dora Luz Recinos

- Cuanto tiempo estas trabajando por la association? 3 anos

- Cual son los beneficios de trabajar por ellos? To work united and sell our products better. They give us new design ideas to develop.

Ceramica Palopo – San Antonio Palopo
San Antonio Palopo is one of the few communities in Guatemala where pottery is still produced. It’s certified 100% lead free.

AUDA is working with 3 different groups which are making over 170 hand-painted ceramic goods. So far they have received a major order from ABC Flooring & Carpet in New York City, Starbuck's coffees and a growing number of fair trade coffee shops have begun using Cerámica Palopo coffee mugs.

Products: ceramic

Mayan Fair World and AUDA

2007-01-12T10:18:00.000-06:00

I have been working the last week on my project named Mayan Fair World. Here in Guatemala, there are some Fair Trade associations selling local arts to help communities to develop themselves. Most artisans working in Guatemala and Chiapas live under conditions of extreme poverty. These associations are seeking to improve the lives of these talented artisans. Through fair trade, they can count on a modest but regular income that enables them to raise themselves from relentless poverty. People eat better, send their children to school, improve their homes and even save a little.
So I would like to promote the Guatemalan art in Europ by being the point of contact between the associations here and the associations there. This month, I’m going to visit some associations and will do a report to send to the associations in Europe who are interested. This project has two objectives: promote the Guatemalan art in Europe and help the Mayan communities here who had suffered a lot during the civil war in the 80s and 90s.

So this week I went to visit an association in Lago Atitlan named AUDA. But first read the interview of the President.

Name of the association: AUDA for Artisanos United for the development of Lake Atitlan

Date of creation:2003

Name of the owner: Freida Whiddon Cox

How many people /groups are working in the association? 7 groups around Lago Atitlan

Fair Trade Association: YES

Type of products: jewellery, textile and ceramic

Interview of the owner/ director:
- Name: Freida

- Where are you from? Texas, USA

- How did you have the idea to create this association? I had a vision one day, seeing me selling things in Guatemala and it was working really well. I didn’t know what I was selling but all I know it that it was working. My husband and I came to Guatemala once a year during 9 years and everytime we came to Lago Atitlan, I said that’s the place I want to live. So when my husband retired 6 years ago, we moved to Panajachel.

- How is the association working? We are working with 7 communities which are organised in cooperatives. Mostly are composed only by single mothers, the fathers having left their wives and having been killed during the war. We’re helping them to develop their products and sell it to international market. The need of the international market is not the same as the Guatemalan one. We’re giving them new ideas and advices so that groups’ products appeal to international tastes without losing cultural significance.
Of the sale of the product, one third goes to the artist, one third to the projects fund and the rest to the association.
The workers of these cooperatives earn a fair living wage from their products. I did a research and in Guatemala artists earn 16 quetzals /hour so we’re paying them 17 quetzals /hour.
Each cooperative has a member on the board of the Association and participate actively to the development of the association.

- What is the main project your association is working on at the moment? We are doing a lot of social projects like building a house for a widow who lived 8 years with neighbours or family members, rebuilding the roof of a kitchen,… but our biggest project is administering and monitoring a local school children’s scholarship program. AUDA currently provides scholarships in San Antonio Palopó, San Juan Laguna, Panajachel, El Tablon, Zaput & Choacruz. We are pushing the parents to send the kids to school so that they can have the minimum of education and help their communities to develop. Last year, we helped 155 kids.
Unfortunately this year we haven’t received the money we were promised so we won’t be able to help as much kids as last year.

- what are your projects in the future? We are looking for donations for a few projects:
Clean Water Project, Choacruz: We want to construct a Water Deposit Tank and there will be 12 families plus who will benefit from this. We are looking for money to buy the materials and build it. This Project Tank will retain the natural spring that gives water to this community as well as keep the water clean.
Community Pilas: AUDA hopes to build a pila, a communal clothes washing site, for the women of San Antonio Palopo. A community pila would prevent the women from having to wash their clothes in the cold waters of Lake Atitlan, a process which has been known to cause the women extreme pain and arthritis. Also, a pila is a more environmentally friendly approach to clothes washing; and would help to keep the Lake free from soaps, detergents and other pollutants.
Project of Farm of Ponedoras Chickens: The Place Paquiacquix, Totonicapán, is located to the south of the departmental head with approximately 50 families. Poverty is still affecting many of the inhabitants because of the lack of work. With this project, we want to fight against the poverty for at least 8 families to begin. We would like to purchase 300 chickens, build coops and buy food to begin. In a short time they will be able to generate more work and this will enable them to send their children to school.

- What was the biggest challenge you meet since the creation? Beginning to work with the communities wasn’t easy. Because of the tradition, the difference of the culture and the languages we had problems to understand each others.

- When was the association recognized as a Fair Trade association? Since its creation

- What did it bring to the association? To have a chart of quality for the international customer and be sure that the girls are paid a fair wage.

- Are you exporting your products? Where? We’re becoming to export to the USA but we’re willing to open our doors to other market. We are working on our catalogue right now to present our products.

- What are the benefices for the association of exporting abroad? To bring a regular income for the families and help them to get out of the poverty.

Biotop del Quetzal and back to Antigua

2007-01-04T11:05:00.000-06:00

the tree of Quetzales

back to Antigua

our last dinner with my parents

Semuc champey

2007-01-04T11:00:00.000-06:00

Coban and the caves of Lanquin

2007-01-04T10:54:00.000-06:00

Uspantan and the desert

2007-01-04T10:47:00.000-06:00

On the road to Uspantan

2007-01-04T10:42:00.000-06:00

visit of Mynor's cousin shop

a French sewing machine!

conference on the peace

Climbing of Santa Maria, Xela

2007-01-03T17:45:00.000-06:00

sunrise on the valley

the top, the worst is to come!
the path in the forest

View on Xela

Yes we did it!!!

Market in Solola, Lago Atitlan

2007-01-03T17:41:00.000-06:00

local market in Solola

Happy Christmas!!!

Santa Catarina, Lago Atitlan

2007-01-03T17:35:00.000-06:00

weaving machine
buy buy it's cheap!!

kids in traditional dresses

Cerro Del Oro, Lago Atitlan

2007-01-03T17:25:00.000-06:00

View on the lake

Gallo, the national beer

family's photo

weaving

eating Italian in Pana

Christmas in Antigua

2007-01-03T17:07:00.000-06:00

Antigua

Earthlodge hotel, in the mountains

Monterrico, Pacific coast

2007-01-03T16:52:00.000-06:00

Everyday some babies turtle are going back to the sea

Sunrise on the lagoon

the swimming pool at our hotel

driving across guatemala

2007-01-03T10:04:00.000-06:00

Before I start my stories, here are the rules for driving in Guatemala (and Central America…):
- the curbs are the best to overtake
- use the klaxon all the time
- the green colour of the traffic light is to indicate that the road just started
- the red light means that you have to be careful because I’m coming
- the garbage, through it away by the window
- one light broken or not working minimum for driving by night (but none working is better)
- in the city, follow the rules of the jungle

and I have followed them carefully of course and it works because I’m still alive!!!

Friday
On Friday morning we left Xela early, direction the north and Huehuetenango. We was my parents, Mynor and I. A very nice road in the mountains, we arrived in Huehue in 2 hours and decided to find a bank to change dollars. I don’t know if I said it before but there is a big problem with bank notes in Guatemala. There are no or very few banks notes left in all the cash machines in all the country, because of Christmas. So you can see some long queues in front of all the banks and to get some cash it’s a mess. Luckily I asked my family to take enough dollars, as you can pay or change it almost everywhere. It saved us of being penniless and having to beg for money in the street :o)

So we couldn’t find any way to change dollars in Huehue so decided to go on. The road between Huehue and Coban is one of the most beautiful roads in Guatemala. It crosses the country west to east across the mountains. We stopped at Aguacatan for lunch and visited Mynor’s cousins. They own a shop of women traditional clothes and make them themselves. It’s beautiful but we got shocked by the prices. The skirts cost between 200 and 500 USD and same for the top. For here it’s madly expensive so we understand that women only buy one per year. Mynor told me that in this village they have money because every family has at least one member living in the USA and sending money.
We went then to Uspantan where we stopped for the night. The woman at the hotel told us about the opening of the museum of the peace and tradition. So we decided to go to see. It was a very small museum owned by a local family. I forgot to say that today was the 10th year of the signature of the peace accord, ending 36 years of a civil war. This village was in the middle of the war zone so they suffered a lot during many years, seeing lots of their people dying. So for them this peace accord changed their life and they decided to open this museum to remember. Even if we didn’t understand everything, it was very interesting. And we got some free food at the end to thank us for sitting during 3 hours.
After a quick walk in the city center, we went to bed tired after a long trip.

Saturday
This morning we woke up early, ready to discover a bit the area before heading to Coban. Mynor wanted to bring us to a forest in the mountains but we quickly realized that our car wasn’t appropriate for the roads here. Dust roads with big holes, not good for the car! So we came back to town and Mynor went to see a friend to ask her where we could go. She offered to bring us to a mini desert 14 km from town. After a long discussion (will we pass with the car or not?), we decided to try. The road wasn’t very good, but with such a good driver (me ;o)) we arrived at our destination without many pocks under the car… we let our car in front of her mum’s house and with her two sons and daughters and her sister in law, we went to the top of a hill. The vegetation was very dry and it was really hot. We saw cactus and others desert vegetations.
Back to town we had a quick lunch because it was getting late and we had 3 hour drive to Coban. Some people told us that the road was good and some that it was bad. Well we had a bit of both, some good parts and some bad parts. Yes you better have a 4*4 wheel to travel across Guatemala! With the morning experience, we managed quite well. Trying to meet the big trucks going down on the larger parts of the road. And we arrived to get back to the good road before night, oufff!!!!
We arrived in Coban by night and we found a nice hotel to rest before another adventure day. Coban is a nice little town surrounded by coffee plantation and which has a chilly and rainy weather. A big change of vegetation from the morning!

Sunday
This morning we left Coban direction Lanquin and the Grutas. The road is good until 5 km before getting to Lanquin. Then it’s the bump bump road again, where your back and neck suffer the more. But we were well trained and ready for more adventure!!!
The grutas are equipped with a walkway and electric light for the first few hundred meters of the caves. The rest is untouched. I hadn’t been to a cave for ages so I enjoyed the visit.
When we got out we had a bad surprise! One of the wheel was flat, something you shouldn’t be surprised on a road like this. We changed it with the help of a nice bus driver and he indicated us where we could get our wheel repaired. But the 31st of December you think all will be closed. Luckily for us we found a small shop opened and in 5 minutes it was repaired and we went for lunch to recover from our effort.
Then we went to Semuc Champey, another 9 km on a back road. A river with a stepped series of pools of cool and clear water great for swimming. After the entire road we did, it was nice to enjoy the water and relax for a while. It reminds me of the waterfalls I saw in Palenque in Mexico but there it was smaller.
At night, we looked for a nice restaurant to celebrate the New Year’s Eve. Most of them were closed but finally we found one which accepted to take us without reservation. Then we went to bed, tired after a good day. Yes we didn’t even wait for midnight, just listened at the noise of the fireworks in our bed. Hard life of a traveller :o) HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

Monday
We woke up as usually at 7:30am and left Coban without finding a coffee shop for our breakfast. Destination Guatemala City and Antigua. We found the rain and it didn’t stopped all morning. What a pleasure to drive on a good road! But it is almost boring after the bump bump road :o)
We stopped at the Biotopo Del Quetzal, a natural reserve. After a breakfast, we were hesitating to go for a walk with this rain. Mynor and I didn’t take our rain coat (it never rain off course in Guatemala…). But the guard lent us two pieces of plastic and we went for a one hour walk in the rain forest. It is one of the places where you can see the Quetzal, the national bird. But with weather it was very improbable and you need to go very early in the morning. Anyway we enjoyed walking and we even had a bit of sun at the end.
We got to Antigua at 4 pm for our last evening with my parents. The central park was full of people, today being a holiday. We had a nice diner and offered a little present to thank my parents for this great trip. We all enjoyed it very much and my family enjoyed the company of Mynor who played well his guide role.

Now we’re back to Xela and my parents are back to France. Back to the “normal” life, back to work. I’m moving with a friend today and will live with her family for a while. A good way to speak more Spanish, as I really want to improve it quickly. I’m going to look for students this week to start teaching English and French as you can imagine I need money after my holidays (how weird…)!!
I have a lots of pictures of my trip but need to select some for you. Will put the pictures on line soon!!

the family in Guatemala

2006-12-28T17:50:00.000-06:00

On Sunday afternoon, after a very good restaurant, we took the road to our hotel named EarthLodge. It's a lodge in the mountains next to Antigua. To go there, you have to know where you're going because you have to take a sandy road to a small village then a muddy road until you can't go farther. It's far from everything but really once you are there you don't want to leave again! So peaceful, so beautiful! We rent two cabins in the forest with a beautiful view on the valley. Pitty we only stayed a night! For Christmas' eve we were 20 people around the table from different countries and we ate a delicious diner with a desert! Seems weird for you but here in Guatemala people are not eating desert or cakes with lots of cream... yuck! so when i can eat a nice desert, youhouu!!! Then we made a fire and talked for a while. Knowing what was the plan for the next day, I decided to go to bed at 10:30pm. But got awake by the fireworks at midnight. About 20 fireworks at the same time in the valley, how exciting! and the noise and the smell...

On Monday morning, we left Antigua to go to Panajachel in Lago Atitlan. 3 hour drive on the main road crossing Guatemala South to North. Here even if you want to respect the speed limite, you can't because it's too dangerous. you would have all the trucks and buses overtaking! I'm disappointed, none of the chicken buses have overtaked me yet! pffff!!!! not fun ;o)
We arrived at Panajachel for lunch and after letting our luggages at the hotel, we went for a local lunch in a restaurant with view on the Lake. We were sleeping in a nice hotel in a room for 4 with our own bathroom. The only problem... we didn't have hot water!!! In a 2 stars hotel??? Well my parents wanted to have a taste of the Guatemaltec life?? they got it!! we got 10 USD discount for that anyway :o) So in the afternoon we went to visit two small villages on the border of the lake: Santa Catarina and San Paolo. Not very touristic, they kept their tradition and it's one of the place where you can see guys wearing traditional clothes.

On Tuesday morning, I decided to bring my parents to a local market. We took a Chicken bus to Solola, a town 20 mn from Pana. They had to do it at least one, travelling by Chicken Bus. And they enjoyed it. Well off course they told me they were happy the trip wasn't longer ;o)
When we came back to Pana, we took the car to go to the other side of the Lake. It was really windy so i prefered to avoid taking a boat. We went first to a small village where we were the only tourists and were all the kids were following us. Only curious, so that showed us that not many tourists were going there. Then we went to Santiago which is one of the most popular town around the Lake. After the calm, the activity.

Yesterday we arrived in Xela, the town i have been speaking about for a year. So they saw where I used to work, where I'm living now. In the afternoon we went to the Hot Springs Aguas Georginas. It was the first time i saw so many people there! It was packed and usually we're almost the only persons. Yes people are on holidays, enjoying a nice afternoon at the springs.
In the evening, my friends joined us for diner and we went to bed early because we had to wake up at 4:30am this morning. Not my brother who left this morning for Mexico to join his friends for New year's eve.

This morning we were meeting at 5am to climb the volcano Santa Maria (3750m). We were my parents, me, a friend and the guide. I wanted to bring my parents at least at one of the volcano. I climbed Santa Maria last january but it was so misty that I didn't see a thing. So that was the opportunity. We started at 2500m by night. The first part of the walk was quite easy, to get into the walk. But then started the hardest, climbing into the wood in the mud and the ice. When I say climbing, it's really mean climbing. My parents found it really hard, but they got to the top taking their time. Slowly but surely! On the way we lost our guide and the other friend because they decided to take an other path. We got to the top in 4h30, find a beautiful landscape. Our guide arrived 20 mn later and we had a long break enjoying the sun. But the way down was even harder, trying to to fall or at least as less as we could :o) My mum got sick, because of the altitude so she went down but it was a real calvaire for her. Poor mum! So it took us 4 hours to go down but we made it!!! I'm proud of my parents even if it was really hard for them. I'm tired tonight but not as much as I thought I will. and happy to have done it again!!

Tomorrow we're leaving for the north of Guatemala with Mynor for the last part of our trip. More news next year. HAPPY NEW YEAR TO EVERYBODY!!!!

when the body can't follow the mind

2006-12-24T11:25:00.000-06:00

On Thursday morning, we left Xela to go to Tajumulco very early. The night before a friend told me that the weather forecats was very good for the next two days. So we left very confident (but I usually never trust the weather forecast...), taking a first bus to San Marcos then a minibus to the begining of the trail. There... it was misty and cold. we couldn't see at 100 metres ahead. But we didn't want to stop for that and started the trek, climbing slowly and trying to let our body get adapted to the altitude. Some time to time, we could see some part of the landscape. Before the mist came back, hiding all to us. I woke up the morning with stomach ache and thought things will get better later. But the more we climbed the more I felt sick, and my legs were starting to shake. Half way, we stopped for lunch and I had to decide what to do next. Turn back or go on hoping my body will let me go to the top? Knowing what was waiting for me (i climbed Tajumulco last february), I decided it was better for me to turn back. So I let my brother in the hands of our guide and climbed down to take a bus back to Xela. Where I arrived at 6pm. Sad not have been able to do it but sometime you better listen to your body...
My brother came back on Friday afternoon, very tired but happy to have done it. The weather cleared in the morning and we saw a nice sunrise.
On Friday evening, we went out with an other friend and went to a bar to listen live music. Then went dancing for a few hours.

On Saturday afternoon, we took a bus to Guatemala city where my parents were arriving late at night. So we went to the hotel to wait for them and we found a TV with a DVD! youhouuu!!! so we enjoyed our evening watching some movies and eating pizza. Yes a very american evening:o) This morning we rent a car and headed for Antigua. Driving in Guatemala is a real sport, you have to know the law on the roads is the jungle law... nothing is forbidden! The chicken buses are the king of the road, if they want to overtake you... you better let them do it! In Europe, the cars are overtaking the buses. Here it's the opposite... But if you study the way they work, it's a real enterprise. The role of the driver is to overtake as much vehicules as he can and in the most dangerous way he can, and go to the destination as quick as the bus let him do. the role of the ayudante is to fill the bus to the maximum of his capacity, without slowing down the bus by climbing on the roof to put the bags when the bus is moving, and to let the over vehicules know that they have to get out of their way when they overtake. While shouting the destination to let know the people where we're heading. And it works very well!!! Of course there is no customer service but people seem happy to share all with their neighbours.
So when you switch from the bus mode to the car mode, that's a big shock :o) too much place, we could put at least 5 more people in the car if we want to travel the guatemaltec mode... My brother is my ayudante, looking at the map while beeing sure that the temperature in the car is fine, that the music is not too loud... hard job!!

We're in Antigua today and tonight we're going to a mountain lodge in the mountains up to the city to spend Christmas. I was there last Christmas and it's a beautiful place, very quiet with an amazing view on the valley. Then tomorrow we're heading to Lago Atitlan for two day.

Sol, playa y cerbeza!

2006-12-20T16:30:00.000-06:00

I'm just back from Monterrico after two very lazzy days :o)
On Monday morning, just before leaving Antigua, we decided to look for a cash mashine as i read on my travel book that there was no bank in Monterrico. We tried one, two, three... none was working! So we went to take our shuttle to Monterrico and asked the driver if we could stop in a bank on the way. We stopped in Escuintla, and there the bank machines didn't work either... so well maybe we could have some free holidays?? I read in the newspaper later that it was a problem in all Guatemala, the bank are short of notes... because of Christmas people spend more so need more money. So we decided to change some dollars once we were in Monterrico, that's why it's very useful to travel with dollars anyway you go! It is accepted everywhere.

We arrived in Monterrico before lunch. Monterrico is a small island separate from the rest of the country by a canal you have to cross by boat. The bus let us in front of an hotel and once we asked for the price and checked the room, we decided to stay. For a very low price, we had a double room, small but clean. The must of the must was the swimming pool. First it seems weird to have a swimming pool when the hotel is in front of the sea. But when you see how dangerous is the courant and the big waves, you prefer the quiet swimming pool :o)
Monterrico is a small village full of hotels and restaurants, with a large black sand beach. It's very busy during the weekend but during the week, it's really quiet. It is known too for its turtle protected area. Normally every Saturday they deliver some babies turtles on the beach and let them go to the sea. But actually they have a lots of babies so they're doing it everyday. We saw on Monday night when they put free 4 babies of a few days. Seeing them running on the sand and getting them catched by the waves was entertaining.

On tuesday morning, we woke up at 5 am and went with a guide for a ride on the canal on a pirogue. It was beautiful, to see the sun rising and see all the birds and fishes waking up. Not a sound, it's a perfect place for bird watching! The guide told us a few stories about the area and the fish species.
We were back on the ground at 7am for a good breakfast. Did I say that the food was delicious? we tried a new restaurant everytime and we didn't get disappointed. The rest of the day, we chilled out between the swimming pool, a sportive swim in the sea, and reading in hamac. Just the perfect day in the hot weather and under the sun! Just we had to fight against mosquitoes at night and seemed they love white bood!

This morning we left the piece of paradize to go back to Xela. We tried the chicken boat, then 3 different chicken buses before to get to our destination. Yes Manu got a nice first experience of the local transport... Tomorrow we're leaving very early for the volcano Tajumulco and will be back on Friday night. After resting, it's time for action!!!

from Antigua

2006-12-17T20:19:00.000-06:00

I left Xela this morning to meet my brother in Antigua. And as you know travelling by bus is always a big adventure here. First, when I was on the bus to Chimaltenango (3h from Xela) suddenly the bus stopped and the ayudante got out. One of the door of luggage compartiment was opened and apparently we lost something. So the car went backward on the road, the ayudante running wild trying to find what they lost... and when the car finally stopped, everybody went out of the bus trying to see if none of their luggage falled out of the car. That was something... but they found what they were looking for so we could leave.
Then in Chimaltenango, I took a chicken bus to Antigua. At the begining the driver was going so slow... something was going wrong because a chicken bus by definition can't go slowly... then I understood that they had a timetable to respect because the driver was looking at his watch every 5 second. A timetable?? here in Guatemala??? no it's not possible! then suddenly he put the fast driving mode on and pchuiiitttt, Bump bump!
I'm now in Antigua where I met my brother. We're leaving tomorrow for Monterrico on the west coast. Enjoying the beach and chilling out for 2 days. Then we would like to climb Tajumulco, the higest Voclano in Central America with its 4220m high.
More news later this week!

News from Xela

2006-12-13T11:07:00.000-06:00

I'm back to Xela after my visa adventure. I told you before that I'm working on a project without telling more... I have a friend who has a travel agency here and he has no website, so I did him one this weekend. I haven't put it online yet because I'm waiting for him to have a look at it if I need to change things.
The second part of the project is to do publicity for his agency outside Guatemala. First, in France and Canada by contacting local agencies and then if it's working I'll contact agencies in others countries in Europe.
I want to contact too students groups or associations. The goal is to bring more people in Guatemala, so will see how it goes... and Mynor told me he can find me more work to do by internet.
This week I'm on holidays but I'm working on my project and I'm organising my English and French class as I want to give private classes from January.
On Sunday my brother is coming over and will travel with him for a week (beach, Tikal,...) before my parents are coming over on the 23rd.

all this for a visa...

2006-12-09T15:26:00.000-06:00

As the date to renew my tourist visa was getting close, I decided to go to the Mexico border on thursday and try to renew it there without going to Mexico. So I left Xela at 7:30am. Xela is close to 3 borders: La Mesilla, Talisman and Tecun Uman. I took a bus to San Marcos, a small town in the north, then an other one to Malacatan and finally a shuttle to the Talisman border. As soon as we went down the mountains, I took off my jacket and pullover. Nice to be back to the heat :o)
So I went to the Guatemalan immigration and tried to talk with the officer about renewing my visa without going to Mexico. NADA! Not even the offer of money changed his mind. I know some friends who arrived, so maybe I’m not good at discussing… but I thought my Spanish was quite good… so I had to go to Mexico, had no choice. Passed the Mexican immigration, and there they put on my file that I had to pay the $21 USD tax! Last time when I went to Mexico for 3 days I didn’t have to pay. So why now? Anyway I took a mini bus to Tapachula, then an other one to Hidalgo, the other border. My idea was to come back to Guatemala the same day… but when I arrived at the Mexican immigration, they told me I needed to pay the tax. So I told them about the other time, blablabla! But nothing, trying to discuss with immigration officers is like talking to a wall! So I went back to town to pay my tax in the only bank. There was so many people so had to wait for 1h30 for my turn. Finally when it was my turn, the guy to told me that you have to pay this tax before 2:30pm (and it was 3:30pm)!!! NOOOO!!! So I waited all this time for nothing, I was mad! And off course I had to wait until the next day 9am. So discouraged, I went back to Tapachula. I found a nice hotel (for $12 USD), a bit expensive but at least I had a nice bed and a private shower. I finally went for diner (hadn’t eaten since the morning), and then had a good night sleep.

Yesterday morning, I was at the bank at 9am, paid and then went back to border. I passed the Mexican immigration without problem. Oh yes I forget to tell that I was supposed to stay in Mexico 72h but only stayed 24h… but when I arrived at the Guatemalan border, it’s when all went wrong. The first thing the woman told me is that she couldn’t give me an other tourist visa because I have been here for a long time. Off course she saw all the stamps of my last trip. She couldn’t or didn’t want to understand that I went back to Europe in May and only came back in September. She told me the law is that they can renew the tourist visa only once. And that was the case! She wanted to give me a 72h visa and I would need to go to the immigration office in Guatemala city. We talked and talked and she called the office in Guatemala city. Finally after 30 minutes, she told me she will give me a two months visa. But she wrote 90 days on my visa so good for me. God that was awful! Luckily my Spanish is good enough to understand and make me understand.
So with my visa, I took a bus to Xela. It took 4h30 to go back and as soon as I arrived, I had to put back my pullover. Yes it’s freezing here!

So about my visa situation, I have to find a solution not to have to worry about it every 3 months. 1st solution: marry my boyfriend (only a joke…). 2nd solution: ask my friend who has a travel agency to help me to get a visa by sponsoring or by doing a contract. 3rd solution: ask an “intermediary” to renew my visa next time. There are ways with money to get what you want here, but off course the 2nd solution would be the best!
I’m really upset with the Mexican immigration to make me pay the tax, and with the Guatemalan one for all this mess! Especially because I want to help Guatemala by bringing tourists here (that’s my project I’m working on- will talk about it an other time). Ah well I’m ok for 3 more months now but… have to find a solution!
So now I’m back to Xela, penniless, for an other week before my Brother is coming.

Happy Birthday Boy!!!

2006-12-05T11:13:00.000-06:00

Marco, my Italian friend
in Guatemala city

With Mynor's colleagues

Happy 28th birthday!

At Yoga house with all our
flatmates

Leaving party in San Marcos

2006-12-05T09:50:00.000-06:00

Welcome back to Guatemala!

2006-12-04T14:11:00.000-06:00

I wanted to put on line the pictures of my leaving party in San Marcos but I have problems with internet so will do it an other day... here are my adventures of the last 4 days...

Friday
After a very short night (was too afraid not to wake up on time!), Elina went with me to the bus station at 5 am. Normally the bus is ready to go but there… nothing! After 5 minutes, the driver arrived and banged on the door to wake up the ayudante who was still sleeping. Ouff will be able to leave San Marcos! Bye Bye!!!
I changed bus at the desveo (main road) and took a bus to the border. Then a minibus to the Guatemala border, then a taxi to Esquipula… to catch the bus to Guatemala city. Where I finally arrived at 2pm! Yes your really have to travel to do this trip… I met Marco, my Italian friend, that I hadn’t seen for 2 years. We went for lunch, then a walk in town. And it was already time for me to catch an other bus to Xela. Yes 3 hours every two years it isn’t much but hopefully next time we’ll be able to arrange our timetables better.
It took 5 hours to get to Xela, thought I will never arrive! After 15 hours, my body was saying: STOOPPP!!!
Mynor went to pick me up at the bus station and I went straight to bed, couldn’t do anything else. While Mynor went out with his friends and woke me up at 2am when he came back (he was supposed to be back at 11pm… but well you know guys ;o))

Saturday
Mynor went to Totonicapan with the school while I stayed in Xela. Needed a bit of quiet time, just chilling out and taking care of my stuff. Nice to have nothing to do, no kids to give classes, no more shouting… I called my friends, I’m backkkkk!!!
We’re living in a big house shared by about 12 people. So it’s nice because you meet people from different backgrounds but the other side is that it’s quite dirty and for my Spanish it’s not really good. So will move out in January.

Sunday
Sunday was a cooking day. Every Sunday, two people in the house where we’re living cook diner. And today it was Mynor and an other guy turn. We cooked a broccoli soup, some kind of green beans small crepes and for dessert I did an apple cake. Yes I can cook! Mynor was surprised, so now he won’t tell me that I don’t know how to cook… hehe!
Oh and we had a mini earthquake (5.3 degree), suddenly at 2 pm the house started moving for about 20 second. That was scaring!!

Monday
This week, I’m going to be busy. I need to look for a place to stay in January as the room in this house is a bit expensive. I need to look for a job too… and I have a few projects I have to finish, like preparing my French and English classes and doing a website for a friend. One of my best friend has a travel agency and I’m going to help him to do some publicity outside Guatemala.
Oh and I have to go to Mexico for my visa before Friday.
Today, it’s Mynor’s birthday. He’s 28 years old. So tonight, he invited some friends plus the guys of the house so we will be about 14. We’re going to order pizza and will cook his birthday cake. Miammm!!!

School Jose Tulio Gomez

2006-11-30T16:15:00.000-06:00

This is my school

First Grade (left to right)
Francisco, Dulce, Isabel
Estefany and Mariam

Grade 2.. Angie, Alejandra
Jose Ramon, Nancy, Tony
and Jorge

Grade 3... Michel,
Javier and Adan

Grade 4...
Deily and Lilian

and grade 5
Dayra, Nicolle, Ariana
and Lizza

No miss don't go!

Jessy and her kids Rosa Lilia and Dae Han

Leaving San Marcos, Bye Bye Honduras!!!

2006-11-30T16:09:00.000-06:00

Yes today was my last day at work and tomorrow I’m heading back to Guatemala for more adventures. The kids had been asking over and over the last few days why I’m leaving. The first grade got really excited when they heard that I have a boyfriend in Guatemala. Oh I forgot to tell you about my husband here. Yes because the kids decided that I’m married with Riccardo, one of my friend. And Elina is married to him too off course! And they got shocked when I told them that I have a boyfriend too! Well here they shouldn’t be... but well oh sweet kids, let’s them believe that the world is perfect :o) So to go back to the 1^st grade, they draw me a picture representing a house and they told me it’s where I’m going to live with my boyfriend. Oh sweet!

I’m not going to miss the “no miss!!”.... “i do nothing”... “i want to go to my house”... "I don t have a pencil"...and all the shouting I had done during the last 2 months ½. Time to rest my voice!
But kids are kids and you get attached to them. So I’m feeling a bit sad to leave but happy to go back to Guate. Today they all did a drawing for me, saying that they're going to miss me. Then after school we had a cake and I had cream all over the face as it's the tradition here. We danced, then all the kids one by one came to tell me goodbye and gave me a hug. They offered me a tee shirt of the school and a pen with light.

And I’m not going to miss San Marcos with its boring life, the look of the guys when you walk in the street, beeing waking up at 5 am in the morning by a car with a speaker doing some publicity for the anniversary of the hospital (zic!!),... but I’m going to miss my friends Elina, Bonny, Riccardo, Jessy... my mama d’Honduras and her delicious food...The pool tournaments with the boys...the famous parties in San Marcos with the cowboys...All the grossips of Jessie... Yes there is always some good things and bad things when you’re leaving a place.

But now time for some long holidays! Just chilling out for a few days then I have to start to look for a job, a place to stay for january,... Before the visit of the family.
I’m leaving at 5am tomorrow morning (so nobody can see me... hehe!), and head to Guatemala city where I’m going to meet my Italian friend for a few hours, then finish my trip to Xela. Where hopefully my boyfriend will be waiting for me ;o)
More news from Guatemala soon!!

Copan, Honduras

2006-11-27T15:28:00.000-06:00

Gay party at Copan

2006-11-27T14:45:00.000-06:00

After 3 weeks in San Marcos, I finally escaped on Saturday morning. We took the 5 am bus to San Pedro Sula and stopped at La Entrada, where we changed to an other bus to go to Copan. 61 km that we did in 2 hours, yes sometime you better not be in a rush in Honduras! It was a very small bus where you have to put, off course, as many people as you can, and stopping at every corner. We got at Copan at 9:30 am and decided first to have a good breakfast before attacking the visit of the ruins.

The parc acheological is 1 km from the city center, a nice walked we enjoyed after the trip by bus. Two weeks before, I read in the newspaper that they increased the price of the entrance up to $15 or 285 Lempiras for foreigners. For tourist, it doesn’t seem so expensive but for people living in Honduras it’s equal at more than a weekly wage or amost 6 hours of private classes... So we asked our boss to write a letter saying that we’re working in Honduras as volunteer for a long period. She ended up writting a nice letter and we were sure it would work and we could pay the local price (80 Lempiras so 200 Lempiras less!). But the girl at the desk told us that before there was a price for residents but not anymore and there was no way she could give us the local price.So as we were there, we paid and went to visit the ruins.

A bit of history
Ceramic evidence shows that people have been living in Copan valley since around 1200BC and probably before that. Around AD 426, one royal family went to rule Copan led by a King named Mah K’ina Yax K’uk’ Mo’ (Great Sun Lord Quetzal Macaw). He was the semidivine founder of the city. By AD 695, the population of Copan was around 20,000 people. The civilization collapsed around AD 1200. And the royal city was reclaimed by the jungle.
The first European to see the ruins was the Spanish Diego Garcia de Palacio who wrote to the King Felipe II in March 1576 about what he found. The discovery was not pursue and almost 3 centuries went by before another Spaniard, Colonel Juan Galindo, visited the ruins and made the first map of them in 1839.
The remains of 3450 structure have been found in 24 sq km.

The site is very small compared to others I visited (Tikal, Palenque). But Copan ruinas are very famous for its carved stelae protraying the rulers of Copan. Most of the best stelae date from AD 613 to 738. One of the most important building is the Hieroglyphic stairway. 63 steps inscribed of glyphs and bordered by ramps with more reliefs and glyphs. The story inscibed is not completely understood because the stairway was partly ruined.

After visiting the site, we wanted to go to the Museum but we had to pay 7 $ more so we gave up. We are not definitly some rich tourits... But our ticket was including the visit of Las Sepulturas, an other site 2 km from the main one which were very poorly signposted. After asking a few people, we did the classic conclusions of going by the majority instructions ("two people said to go that way, only one the other"). We walked about an 1,5km on the roadside away from the main site and just when we started to lose faith, found the place. One guy, started showing us around and explaining the history of the site. When entering the site, we were approached by a guide.At first we were being rude and just commenting "u-hum" to make sure if he ever asked for money, we could say we never requested for his services. But it turned out to be more interesting with some background information, and we might have missed some sites without his assistance. And I solved the money-issue by starting to talk without breathers just before we entered the exit, so that the poor man had no chance to even ask for a donation for his services...Las Sepulturas was the residencial area where rich and powerful nobles lived. It’s composed in 3 compounds and we could see houses where they lived and tombs.

After all the walking, we came back to town for a late lunch then found a cheap hotel to get a nap. I met one of my compatriote in the room, a French girl travelling around for a month. She was so excited to speak French that we ended up talking for one hour. It's alway interesting to share experience.
After diner, we went to a bar to drink a cocktail then decided to ask the barman for a good place to go dancing. Again it became proved that the world was small, as he knew some people from our village (They all are Peace Corps though so I assume they have some gatherings). He told us about a reggae party and gave us indications to go there. When we arrived, we realized it was... a gay party! Yes here in Honduras a gay party outside! It took us a few minutes to recover from our surprise but finally we decided to stay. After all we were there and the music wasn’t bad. So we ended up dancing surounded by gay guys, was a bit weird at first but at least nobody annoyed us! For the first time, we could dance alone and weren’t the centre of attention. Two American girls joined us for a while but finally decided to go to a club in the hotel across the street. But you had to pay 50 Lempiras so we decided to stay with our gay friends for a bit of adventure :o)
When we left, we realized that the reggea party was in the bar next door but we were happy to have been to the other one because it was a bit dead. When we were heading back to our hostel, we met again the barman and when we told him where we went he looked horrified... ah ah!

Yesterday, we did a bit of shopping in the morning then started our long trip back home. A bus to La Entrada where we stopped for lunch in the best hotel (to be sure not to be sick...yes luxury has a price;o)). Then we took a minivan to Santa Rosa, then a big bus to Desveo San Marcos and finally we got a ride in a family car to San Marcos. Back to San Marcos, to our lovely kids... But it’s my last 3 days here so I have a good motivation to finish the week :o) I’m leaving on Friday morning for Guatemala city where I’m going to meet up with Marco, an Italian friend I haven’t seen for two years. Then we’ll go to Xela in the evening. Holidays are coming!!!

winter has arrived in San Marcos

2006-11-20T14:57:00.000-06:00

I haven't put any entry for a while but nothing exciting is happening here in San Marcos. It's work, work and work after work with my private classes...
Winter has arrived in San Marcos and we have to wear our jacket for the first time in two months... so hard! It's a big difference of temperature, usually it's 30 degrees during the day and now it´s close to 18-20. Oki it's not the European winter but for here it's cold. Especially when they don't know what is a heater and the buildings are old so they are keeping the cold. Ah well, will survive :o)

This weekend, we went to a local concert on Saturday night. There was a group from the nearest big town playing Salsa, Merengue and other music. That was quite nice. It make me always laugh when i see the silly way they dance on stage. But seems it's a new famous style here because when we went to Tela, they were dancing the same way. The concert was outside, so we have to dance to keep warm. Hard life!

I'm leaving San Marcos really soon. Only 8 days more at school... well can't say I'm not happy... On Saturday, I received an email from an Italian friend who is coming to Cancun tomorrow. He's going to travel for two weeks in Belize and Guatemala so we're going to try to meet the 1st or 2nd of December in Guatemala city. Will be nice because I haven´t seen him for 2 years.
Then my brother is arriving on the 17th December, then my parents on the 23rd December. So will be busy in December!!

Hondurian party at school

2006-11-19T17:51:00.000-06:00

While I was on holidays, they organized a party at the school for the retired teachers. Some pictures of a Hondurian party.

Dayra Gabriella, our boss, with Miss Jenny

Jenny Reyna and Lilian

Elina

I haven't disapeared from the earth, i was just sick

2006-11-14T15:12:00.000-06:00

I haven't put any update on my blog for a week... how strange! well one reason is that nothing really happened in the last days. Just my boring busy life in San Marcos... and the second reason is that i had been really sick this weekend.
On thursday night, I started been sick, runing to the toilet every 10 minutes. But during the night it got worst. I had high fever, loosing blood (that was the scariest thing) and spent a lot of time in the toilet. Without giving you more details. So on Friday morning, I asked Elina to talk with my boss who is a doctor too and asked her what could i have. Well as i was loosing blood, she told me i had amoebas (small worms in your intestin). So she gave me name of a medecine to buy and my local mum went to buy it. Friday was awful, i was vomiting all the food i was eating, fever and all. Luckily my "mama" was taking good care of me. But by the night, i wasn't going much better. In the house where I'm living, there is a doctor who works at the hospital 3 or 4 nights a week so he's not always around. But on Friday night, he was there so "mama" asked him to give his opinion. Well he told me to start the medecine i was supposed to take the saturday morning and gave me a special drink to rehydratate.
On Saturday morning, I had no more fever and was feeling a bit bit better. The awful pain was still there but at least i was not vomiting anymore either. I had an other day in bed (how boring!), just went out quickly to buy some credit for my phone so not to be cut from the world.
On Sunday morning, as i was still in a lot of pain, "mama" decided to bring me to hospital to see a doctor. Here everybody goes to hospital for anything because it costs almost nothing. There are a few private doctors but they are really expensive and off course they are not working on Sunday. So here we went, Conchita told me that as she knows someone working there it will go quicker. Well we waited for 4 hours as still the doctor hasn't started his consultation. People were here till 6 o'clock, with young kids. There is only one doctor on Sunday and first he sees the patients in the hospital before seeing the patients from outside. So we could have waited for all afternoon... anyway at 12 o'clock, we gave up and I called my boss to get the name of medecine to take because i had finished my treatment. Here you can get any medecine without ordonance from a doctor... We went for lunch then i went to visit a friend. Before going home for a quiet afternoon.

I'm back to work since yesterday. My stomach is going slowly better but will take a few more days before getting back to normal. Yes he had a tuff weekend! On Friday, I'll go to do a test in hospital (with a letter from our doctor friend as not to wait) to be sure that I don't have a more amoebas in my body. How did i get them??? well anywhere... by the water, by the food,... in this country you can get them easily even if you think you're extremely careful. But in 8 months living in Central America it's the first time and hopefully the last...

Nothing exciting this week, work as usually and private classes after work. Only 3 weeks left before going back to Guatemala... tic toc tic toc.... the rain has stopped for 2 weeks now and it's getting really dry and hot during the day. So lots of dust everywhere.

Back to San Marcos and the quiet life

2006-11-06T17:55:00.000-06:00

Th last few days, i didn't do much in Xela. Just relax and enjoy my boy's company. Even if things had been a bit hard for us. Yes distance is never easy!
On friday night, we went for diner to the school where he's teaching. Always good to have a good Guatemaltec food. Then we went to a wine and cheese bar with other friends. Not Guatemaltec wine and cheese because they don't product it but was good. and we finished in an other bar, drinking beer. Then at one stage i felt it was time to go home... didn't want to bring someone on my back all the way home :o) if you know what i mean...

I left Xela Sunday morning around 6am. I was supposed to take a bus at 5:15am but he never came! yes never trust the transport here... so i ended up taking a chicken bus to Guatemala city. But i was lucky because it wasn't very busy so enjoy having a full seat for myself for a while and not sharing with 2 or more people... the traffic was very bad because they're constructing new bridges and repairing the road all the way. so it took us 5h instead of 4 hours.
When i got to Guatemala city, i was starving so had breakfast then went to look for a bus to go to the border. And i was lucky (for a change!), because a bus was leaving at 1:30 pm going directly to San Pedro in Honduras. It was more expensive but no need to change 4 times buses and it was a very confortable bus.
Oh just a small story, when i was in Guatemala city i saw two kids walking in the street with goats. In the middle of the trafic! and people were given them a glass to fill with fresh goat milk...
It took me 6 hours to get to my village. I crossed the border without paying the $4 you should as tourist. It's the fird time in 2 months I'm crossing the border so i know all the tricks.

I went back to work yesterday, the kids were very happy to see me but me a bit less... but I'm back only for 4 weeks so will go fast! Back to my quiet life: work, work, work... but I'm taking some time too to relax, don't worry! Last night, we went to play pool with Elina and Bonny. We're getting better... ok we had to be two against Bonny to bit him but....
This weekend will certainly stay in San Marcos and give private classes. Or I have the option to go to San Pedro for an entertaining weekend with Elina... tuff!!!

Lago Atitlan, Guatemala

2006-11-06T17:29:00.000-06:00

JB in a Pick up to the Fuentes Georginas, Xela

Saints dressed up
in a chuch
in Santiago

JB and Amandine

San Pedro

Traditional dresses in Solola

Antigua, Guatemala

2006-11-06T17:18:00.000-06:00

Travelling in Guatemala

2006-11-02T09:58:00.000-06:00

The last few days were quite busy. On Sunday afternoon, JB et Amandine arrived finally in Antigua. After a quick tour of the city and an early diner, we went to bed.
On Monday morning, we woke up at 5:30 am to start the long trip to go to Xela by Chicken buses. For the first trip by chicken buses for my friends, it wasn't a quiet one! First we took a bus to Chimaltenango, 30 mn from Antigua. Then an other bus to Cuatro Caminos, 30 mn from Xela. First we didn't have a seat, and standing up in a chicken bus is a real sport! When you're seated it's already hard not to fall on your neighbours in the mountain road. After 1h we got one seat so we sat by turn... then an other one. But we didn't succeed to have a third, it's not like in Honduras where guys let their places to women... we arrived in Xela at 10:30 am and we booked a room for my friends before going to visit the city. Then we met Mynor when he finished giving his Spanish class. Hadn't seen him for a month so you can guess i was very happy :o) We went for lunch with his friends to a really good Italian restaurant. Well actually the restaurant wasn't open but we met the owner on the way that we know well so he opened it only for us. wouhouu!!! yes am still a star here!
In the afternoon, we went to Fuentes Georginas some hot springs close to Xela. It was freezing on the way up but once you're in the swimming pool, it's better than your own bath!
At night, we were all exhausted after a very long day so we went home after a diner and a beer at my favourite bar.

On Tuesday morning, we left Xela at 6:30 am with JB and Amandine to go to Lago Atitlan. Mynor was going to Todo Santos, a small village in the north, with his school for a horse competition.
We arrived at Panajachel early and we took straight a boat to San Pedro, a very lively village on the lake. We checked in a very cheap hotel i stayed the last time i was there. We paid 15 quetzales each a night, which is less than 2 euros... We took an other boat to go to Santa Cruz la Laguna where start a path which goes around the lake. We did only a part of it but i was nice, walking along the lake without meeting much people. It was cloudy but warm. Just what you need to hike!
When we came back to San Pedro, JB and Amandine booked a tour to go to a mountain leaving at 3am. I couldn't join them because I had no more money. Yes living with the local money is hard when you want to travel!! So on Tuesday night, we had an early diner and were in bed at 8 pm like the chickens... I was so tired that i didn't even notice that it was Halloween with people shouting outside.

Yesterday, my friends left at 3am to do their hike. and i lazily stayed in bed, waking up at 7am! yes i needed a good night of sleep! so goodddd!!!! I just had time to take a shower and order breakfast before they came back. Tired and muddy but very happy. so will certainly bring my parents in December. That's good because my friends are trying for me :o)
After packing our bags, we took a boat to Santiago. It's a village well known for its art and painting. It's full of tourist shops. We visited the church where every year the women dress up the statue of the saints. It's very weird but why not... then we went to see Maximon. It's a saint recognized by the Mayas and the Christians. They have a statue of him in different places in Guatemala where people can come and make offrands. In Santiago, it's a statue half size of a man. You can give him a cigarette, something to eat or drink, or burn a candle.
Then it was already time to head back to pick up our bags then back to Panajachel to take a bus. Destination Chichicatenango for my friends and Xela for me. So said goodbye and i wished them a good end of their trip. They are going to Chichi, Antigua, Coban, Tikal then Belize before heading to Cancun in Mexico. So it's only the start of their trip, hope all will go fine!

I'm back to Xela until Sunday morning. Have no plans, just chill out and spend sometime with my boy and my friends. Will have to head back to Honduras on Sunday for my last 4 weeks. Yes i can do it!!

Yes Guatemala you got my heart!

2006-10-29T11:39:00.000-06:00

On Friday night, after an other tiring week with the kids, we decided with Elina that we deserved a bit of fun. There was supposed to have an activity at the central parc but when we arrived there... nada! We bumped into Ian, an American guy who is working in an other school and we exchanged our experience as teacher in a bilingual school.

Well, for one thing we all agree is that the books we're using are not the best for these Hondurian kids. It's American books made for American kids and not for kids learning English as a second language. It's too difficult for them and I don't think they are really learning something. Like in Science, they don't understand anything because they have no vocabulary. The same like in reading. They read most of them ok but they don't understand what they're reading. So we try our best to teach them as much as me can but it's not an easy task.
And an other thing that show that this system is not the best, bilingual schools go only until 5th grade. So what happen when they go to 6th grade? They go back to a normal school and forget I'm sure all their English... ah well I'm not going to change the world but I don't understand their system...

Oki now back to my travel stories... During the Friday night, i was awake at 4 am in the morning by a stereo. I was a minivan going around town and doing some publicity for the art festival on Saturday. A 4 am!!! I tell you they are crazy in this village... but good crazy hopefully...
So on Saturday morning we left San Marcos at 6:30am by a bus to go to Nueva Ocotepeque. And there, Elina took a bus to the Salvador border and i took an other one to the Guatemala border. And then started a long trip to go to Antigua where i arrived at 5pm. Dead tired!
I found a cheap and small hotel where i waited for my friends who were coming from France. But at 6pm JB called me to tell me that they were stuck in Miami for the night because they missed their correspondance. So i went to bed very early and today I'm just keeping easy. Reading, writing postcard, writing e-mail. Until my friends arrive around 4pm luckily :o)
And tomorrow very early we're off to Lago Atitlan. The 1st and 2nd November are very important here and I hope we can go to one of the festival. I'll certainly head to Xela on Wednesday morning for the rest of the week.

HOLIDAYS!!!

2006-10-27T15:43:00.000-06:00

Yes finally after 6 weeks working at the school, I'm on holidays for a week. Youhouuu!!! I'm happy at the idea of not seen the kids for a week... weird isn't it??? but they are so cute... would say some... off course but when you have them for 8 hours everyday you don't find them so cut anymore! This week was busy as always. I have been sick for 3 days so I'm happy to see the end of the week.

On Wednesday night, started the 17th Juegos Florales in San Marcos. It's a cultural festival and every night there are groups of students singing, dancing, reading poem, playing music on a stage on the main parc. For once something is happening in San Marcos, we're enjoying it. Well we can't say that people are good singers here but at least they try... the first night, one woman came on stage twice singing awfuly. It was like watching a TV show like "looking for the new star" with people who don't know how to sing but think they are good singers. But yesterday was much better and it was so cute to see the 6 years old kids dancing traditional dance.
Tonight is a big night with a party after the show.

Tomorrow, I'm leaving for Guatemala at 6:30 am. Direction Guatemala city first and then Antigua where I'm going to meet my friends at night. Sunday we're planing to hike the active volcano Pacaya. Monday and Tuesday, we will be in Lago Atitlan and then I'm off to Xela until next Sunday. So going to be a busy week travelling around! But hope i can rest a bit too because I have 6 more weeks here after. So next news from Guatemala!!!

Flood in San Marcos

2006-10-24T16:32:00.000-06:00

Help come and rescue us!!!

Claire is running to help the poor kids
Come, come we need help!!

Everybody is helping to get the kids on safe ground

A crocodile!!!!! Claire the devoted teacher

How to get rid of the water?

Cowboy competition in San Marcos

2006-10-24T16:10:00.000-06:00

The game is to put a pen in a round which is on a cable

Our cat Loco

(means crazy in spanish)

Rescue the kids fom their classroom

2006-10-23T16:49:00.000-06:00

Today was a normal day, a lot of shouting and a lot of work. Until about 2pm when it started to rain like you can see on TV when they have the mousson in India... when you can get wet in 1 second... so the nivel of the water got uper and uper in the school court until you couldn't get out of the classoom. Well we quickly found a way, put off your shoes and walk into the water. That was like crossing the river (a small one of couse!). and soon the kids imitated us and went running wild under the rain. But with Elina we decided to do a special operation: save the youngest kids from their classroom and bring them back on our back. Yes we are some very devoted teachers!!
We wanted to go and save the High School cute boys but not sure they would have let us do that... hihi!!
But then we had to kick some of the kids out of the school and pushed them to get home because they were all wet and could get a cold.
Ah well that was fun!! and everybody had a good laught even the teachers :o)
Will put some pictures on my blog tomorrow.

Tonight, i got my 2h private class canceled. But I have an other class with a niece of our Mama of San Marcos. She wants to learn English. So always good for me!!

swimmimg under the rain and more parties

2006-10-22T17:57:00.000-06:00

On Friday night, to celebrate the end of the week and relax, we were invited to the swimming pool of one of our student´s parents. The dad is building a nice and expensive hotel at the entrance of the town and there is a swimmimg pool. So we went for a swim with 5 of students, and as soon as we were enjoying it the rain came back. But what was the difference, we were already wet! Swimming and dancing under the rain... yes life is exciting here in San Marcos!

On Saturday, I had a 2 hour French class then we went to play pool with Elina and Bonny. Here you play differently than in Europe. First you put the ball all around the table by numbers. And then you have to put the balls from number 1 to 15. Bonny won most of the games, but we fighted as hard as we could and we had our private fan club :o)
At night, we went to a party in San Marcos. That wasn't bad but we definitly prefer the parties in San Francisco. Nicer guys! The guys yesterday were more the cowboy type and a lot were drunk. But our sweet Bonny got us ride of the most annoying ones. The music was nice, very different! From Salsa to Ranchero (local cowboy music) to Disco! It was the first time I heard some disco music in central america and it was a bit weird. But nice for a change.

Today was supposed to be a day of TV and internet. A friend was leaving town for 2 days and she gave me the keys of her house for us to use. This morning, my computer crashed when i was listening music. NOOOO!!! so i called Bonny who is studying computer science at school. and we spent the rest of the day fixing it. Luckily i only lost my music and some unimportant documents. I have the rest on my hard disk externe. Ouff!!! I love computer but only when it's working... hehe! While Elena did her TV afternoon watching DVD. Ah well could have been worse, at least i had internet free for an afternoon.

Next Saturday, I'm going to Guatemala for a week. I'm going to join some friends who are coming over from France for two weeks. So will spend a few days with them before spending a few days with my boyfriend. I made a deal with my boss. I have a week of holidays but I have to go to the border with Mexico to renew my visa and so i'll stay in Honduras until the 15th December. Mynor told me i can go to the border and pay about 10 euros to get my visa renew without entering Mexico. So will try!!!

Invite your friends and they will cook for you!

2006-10-19T18:29:00.000-06:00

This week has gone so quickly! It's already Thursday night without realizing it. Teaching private classes in the evening keep me busy so i don't see the time fluying. Good very good!

Yesterday night, we had an interesting night. We were invited to Carlos' house, the guide who brought us to the parc with the school two weeks ago. He invited us for diner but told me that he'll be back home late so we can help him. No problem for that, always ready to help!
When we arrived at his place, 3 of his friends were on the patio waiting for him. He invited us inside but not his friends... weird! but well we thought maybe they didn't want to get themselves invited for the dinner. So he asked us to help him to cut the vegetales, no problem until here. But then he disapeared with his friends for a while and we ended up doing almost all... invite your friends and they will cook for you! that's a good way to see things, maybe i should do it myself... hehe! Anyway he came back after a while with red eyes and we understood quickly that he went to smoke pot... we finished cooking and had after quite a normal evening, talking and eating. He was just a bit "out" with the smoke and the beer, but friendly no more. At 10 pm, we left because it was getting late for us (yes we're like grand mothers, going to bed at 10 pm!). An interesting experience...
We'll definitly keep contact with him because he offered us to bring us to a few places like Copan (ruins) and a big national parc. He's guide and worked for environment associations so would be interesting to go with him. We'll just be more careful next time he invite us for diner... ;o)

This weekend is going to be quiet. I'm going to teach on Saturday, then at night there might be a party in one of the town nearby. And as we have become party annimals, we'll definitly not miss an opportunity to have some fun!

It's raining less and less here and it's getting a bit cooler. Seems the raining season is almost finished, youpiii!!!!